Meet Ewan Waller, the Head Chef shaping the plates at Maré by Rafael Cagali, the Hove restaurant that claimed a Michelin star within six months of opening, the first such accolade in Brighton and Hove for almost fifty years. From formative years at The Silver Cup to a demanding stint at the two starred Da Terra in London, Waller talks about fire cooked flavours, creative freedom under Rafael Cagali, and the guinea pig that helps him switch off after service.
How would you describe your style of cooking at Maré and what makes Maré special?
At Maré, we keep the food approachable, letting good ingredients lead and treating them with the respect and attention they deserve. We are also fortunate to work alongside an exceptional team, one that is constantly learning and refining its craft, which makes every service a pleasure.
You trained at Westminster College, gained experience at Anglo Restaurant and The Baptist Grill, then worked at The Silver Cup before joining Da Terra in 2022. Looking back, which early kitchen shaped you the most, and why?
All restaurants have given me many valuable lessons but The Silver Cup really made me the chef I am today, giving me a great foundation and the confidence a young chef needs helping me to then join Da Terra.
At the Silver cup we had a small team which we opened with which helped with my understanding when opening Maré.
You joined Da Terra as a Commis Chef in October 2022 and progressed through the kitchen leaving as Senior Chef de Partie before taking on the Head Chef role at Maré. What was it like working in a two Michelin-starred kitchen, and how did that environment push you forward?
At Da Terra you are constantly pushed no matter what you are doing because all they want is for everyone who leaves to reach their full potential. Mark Tuttiet the head chef at Da Terra would always be teaching something day to day and having someone like that leading the kitchen made every day exciting.
Rafael Cagali’s cooking draws from his Brazilian roots, Italian heritage and wider influences. How have you made that creative language your own at Maré, and where do you personally leave your mark on the menu?
I like to think the menu at Maré is built around ingredients and ideas. We might take something familiar, tiramisu for example, and consider how to give it a playful new spin, which for us became our Choux bun. Cooking over fire also leaves its mark on most of our dishes, and always will, thanks to a lovely barbecue that sits at the heart of the kitchen.
Maré was awarded one Michelin star within six months of opening, becoming the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Brighton and Hove for nearly 50 years. Where were you when you heard the news, and what was going through your mind?
Back in January, when I received an email from Michelin, I was frozen with shock. After opening it and seeing it was an invitation to the awards ceremony, I texted Rafael straight away to tell him, as he was away on holiday at the time. I then went out to buy a bottle of champagne, and Lauren and I shared a quiet drink to celebrate.
At the time, I did not fully realise what the invite meant, as it could easily have led to a different accolade rather than the Michelin star itself. What followed was a nervous month of waiting until the awards ceremony finally arrived.
What do you think the Michelin recognition means for the wider food scene in Brighton and Hove, beyond Maré?
I think that gaining the Michelin star has brought more people from outside of Brighton which may not have come before and hoping that when they do visit it also gives the town a lot more traction too as the town deserves the recognition, with such a vibrant food scene in Brighton its great to see everywhere a little busier.
What drew you to working on the south coast, and how have you found the local community as a place to live and work?
My partners family live down this way and it was always a dream for the three of us (Me,Lauren and Beth) to work together, luckily enough Rafael was offered the opportunity to take the site over and with his oversight we haven’t looked back since opening.
Every chef has a piece of kit they could not live without. What is yours?
When I left the Silver Cup Matthew gave me a Slicer which I use every day and take great care to maintain and look after. Using the knife makes me think of the times at the Silver Cup which will always hold a place in my heart. Here is the Slicer below.
Rafael Cagali is clearly a huge influence. What is the most important single thing you have learned from him?
Rafael is constantly teaching me to see things through his eyes and understand how he thinks. It is a lesson I know will help me navigate many of the situations we come across here at Maré.
What do you do to properly switch off?
Outside of the kitchen there is a lot of running and spending time at the gym but the best way to truly wind down is to spend time with Angus My guinea pig.
