Marea by Rafael Cagali brings Michelin-starred flair to Church Road in Hove, blending modern Italian cooking with South American influences. Created by acclaimed chef Rafael Cagali, the Hove restaurant offers a vibrant menu inspired by his Brazilian heritage and Italian roots. In this interview, Rafael shares the story behind Marea, his passion for seasonal ingredients, and why Brighton was the perfect place to launch his latest culinary venture.
Background and Inspiration
Can you tell us a bit about your background and the chefs or kitchens that have influenced your journey?
I was born and raised in Sao Paulo, Brazil. In my early twenties I left the University of São Paulo, where I was studying Economics, to move to London. Originally, I only wanted to stay for a year to improve my English but, coming over, I needed a job to generate an income so I started working in a kitchen. That’s where everything started for me. In that role, I gained a passion for cooking and I felt that I wanted to progress within the kitchen. I also wanted to work with different chefs so I soon relocated to Italy, where my family heritage originates, and was fortunate enough to work with Chef Stefano Baiocco at the Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli on Lake Garda. That role really shaped me and developed my passion further, so I moved to Spain for a couple of years to work at Martin Berasategui in Donostia, followed by Chef Quique Dacosta’s three Michelin-starred restaurant in Denia. I then made my way back to London to work at The Fat Duck – I was inspired by the journey of Heston Blumenthal and how he’d become a success as a self-taught chef, so it was a dream opportunity for me. After that, I worked with Simon Rogan on the opening of Fera in Claridge’s, until the opportunity came for me to open Da Terra in 2019.
How has your Italian-Brazilian heritage shaped your approach to cooking?
My approach to cooking hasn’t just been shaped by my Brazilian-Italian heritage, but it’s also been influenced by me working in other countries such as Spain and Italy, and living in the UK for such a long time. Working with different cultures has shaped my cooking style the most.
What do you love most about working in hospitality?
For me, I love hospitality for a number of reasons. One, is because you know that everyday is going to be different. Another is that hospitality provides you with opportunities to meet new people from different backgrounds. Each one of us has a different story. Hospitality makes you feel united and we’re all led by the passion for what we do.
Marea: The Concept
What is Marea, and when is it opening?
Marea is a restaurant that will open in Hove in September. It will have more of a casual approach than my London restaurant, Da Terra, which excites me as I’ve always wanted to open something slightly more laidback. It will offer an a la carte menu that draws inspiration from my background, offering food that you want to be eating on a day-to-do basis with a pinch of refinement.
Why did you choose Brighton and Hove as the location for Marea?
An opportunity came about for us to move into a beautiful site that we couldn’t miss, and I’d been looking for a long time to open a space outside of London. It also just so happened that Marea’s Head Chef Ewan was moving from Da Terra to Brighton at the same time. It all fell into place.
What excites you about Brighton as a city, both professionally and personally?
I’ve been getting to know Brighton more and more, exploring the city and getting a good feel for it (especially on the days that Da Terra is closed). I like that every place I go to has a distinct personality. There’s lots of independent businesses, and the whole city has such great character to it. It feels really unique, with its own special vibe.
How does Marea fit into your wider restaurant family, alongside Da Terra and Elis?
Marea fits in between Da Terra and Elis. Both restaurants are located within the same space but are totally different concepts. I want to see Marea sit between that. It will be the middle sibling!
What is your overall vision for Marea?
I want it to grow into a beautiful neighborhood spot where the locals are regularly coming back, as well as being a destination for out-of-towners. The place is looking beautiful and I want people to see that we have the best quality produce, which has been sourced locally as much as possible..
How would you describe the Marea experience to someone who’s never heard of it?
It’s hard to describe right now, being a brand new place, but it’s something that we’re working on to make sure it has our personal touch at its core.
Marea means ‘tide’ – how does that theme influence your thinking and the menu?
Marea means ‘tide’ in Italian. We chose it as a nod to my Italian heritage but also because it is reflective of the sea. The menu will be like the rhythm of the tide, always changing.
The Menu & Operations
What kind of menu can diners expect at Marea?
The menu will have little snacks coming from the bar, as well as smaller plates that can be shared, and bigger courses for two people to share. There will also be a selection of sides to choose from, and a curated ‘tasting’ experience from the chef.
How will the food at Marea differ from what guests may have tried at Da Terra or Elis?
It will be a totally different experience but it will have influences from both sides. Casual, but with some of the bold flavours from Da Terra.
Will Marea be aiming for Michelin star recognition like Da Terra?
We want to create a successful restaurant regardless of the accolades. We are there to create an incredible environment, serve good food, and give our guests excellent service.
How involved will you be in the day-to-day running of the restaurant?
Although I will be largely based in Da Terra, I will oversee the Marea operation, staying in constant contact with Ewan and Jake and coming down to the restaurant regularly for menu changes and updates.
Who will be leading the kitchen and front-of-house team at Marea?
The kitchen will be led by Ewan, who will act as Head Chef on a day-to-day basis. The restaurant will be led by Jake, our new Restaurant Manager.
Tell us about your relationship with Head Chef Ewan Waller – why was he the right person for this role?
Ever since Ewan started at Da Terra he has shown a strong personality and willingness. He’s a great team player and his ability to listen and absorb information is brilliant. He’s young but an incredible chef who is only growing in his skills. When this opportunity came to me, and he was already moving down to Brighton, it was a no-brainer.
Reflections & Advice
What does success look like for Marea in its first year?
We’ve received such a lovely welcome from the local community. I want to try my best to be an incredible and successful restaurant for the locals – where people can come and experience a good time.
What advice would you give to aspiring chefs who want to open their own restaurant?
Every chef has their own desire to own their own restaurant, but restaurants aren’t just about yourself. Restaurants are about a whole team – about everyone who is involved. While it’s important to be a good chef, you have to have good people next to you that are willing to listen, and that you’re willing to listen to. You also need experience of running a restaurant before opening your own. This will give you such invaluable experience that you will be able to replicate for yourself.