Few cafés in Brighton have a story as rich as Roedean Café, perched high on the clifftops with sweeping sea views over the coast and Brighton Marina. Behind it is Poul Jensen, a chef whose career has taken him from luxury hotels in London to 5-star sailing ships in Tahiti, and even the kitchens of the iconic River Café. Since taking over Roedean Café in 2015 with his partner Sammy, Poul has transformed the much-loved spot into a destination for hearty, homemade food served with unbeatable views. In this interview, he shares his journey through hospitality, the charm of Brighton life, and what makes Roedean and Mac’s Café enduring local favourites.
Where did your hospitality journey begin?
Denmark… I went on my first holiday without my parents to visit my cousins in Denmark. One night we were making a Beef Stroganoff and realised we didn’t have any double cream to finish off the sauce… So instead, we used a product called Ymer. (Ymer is a Danish milk product that was developed in the 1930s. It’s similar to yogurt and buttermilk and it’s often served as a breakfast, snack or dessert.) The sauce turned out creamier, richer and so much nicer.
Before taking over Roedean Café, what were the key roles and experiences that shaped your approach to hospitality?
Early in my career I worked in big hotels in central London and then went off to Tahiti for a year working on a 5* luxury sailing ship, Windsong, that carried 150 passengers.
On my return I worked at the River Café in London. Their style of cooking started my love of Italian food and steered me to the venues I would work in.
- Daphnes – Head Chef, South Kensington, London. Very famous and popular restaurant for A-listers.
Image Copyright – Daphnes Restaurant South Kensington
- Belgo – Head Chef, London. Where we sold 10 tonnes of mussels a week.
- Moved to Brighton in 1996 and took over the St James Tavern where we served River Café food at pub prices. We also launched Tuaca from the St James Tavern, with many memorable evenings enjoyed (forgotten)…
- Jamie’s Italian – Head Chef, Brighton. I was also part of the openings team and opened four.
- Browns – Head Chef, Brighton. I was also District Head Chef looking after eight other Browns sites.
- How did the opportunity to take over Roedean Café come about in 2015?
Sammy had a small beauty salon in Rottingdean. Talking to a client one day she mentioned that I was fed up working for other people and would love to find a Brighton café. Her client had only just the day before had a conversation with the owner of Roedean Café, who had mentioned that he was thinking of selling.
We soon met with him and it took six months of meetings and chats for him to finally decide that we would be the right people to take Roedean Café forwards.
What was it about Roedean Café that convinced you it was the right venue for you?
We used to go there for our hangover breakfasts and I used to use the golf course with my mates for a round and a couple of cheeky beers, and could always see its potential.
It was a place we thought we could only dream of owning…
Image Copyright: Roedean Cafe and Mini Golf Course
Who are your business partners at Roedean Café, and how do you work together to run the business?
Sammy and I run the business together. We have been in catering all our lives.
Sammy is the vision and design.
I run the business day to day and jump in the kitchen as and when I’m needed.
It is a partnership that works very well and we have a great team that support us.
How do you balance preserving Roedean Café’s art deco charm with keeping it fresh and relevant for today’s customers?
When we first got there, we stripped it back to its original charm… exposing the 80-year-old oak floor.
We kept the original banquets, sanding them back and revealing the many colours from over the years.
When we modernised the ladies, for instance, we retained the old-style cisterns and tiles whilst giving it a fresher look.
How would you describe the concept and ethos of Roedean Café?
It’s all about freshly cooked, homemade quality food and good portions at reasonable prices with an outstanding view, great outdoor space and free parking which can be enjoyed all year round.
What drives your menu choices at Roedean Café, and how do you keep regular customers coming back?
Roedean Café is an old transport café. We have tried to keep it simple although the menu is big.
We have just recently had the biggest menu change so far, including more home-cooked dishes and added some classics like our new Club Sandwich.
How important is the sea-view location and cliff-top setting to the overall experience you offer?
We think the sea-view location is a massive selling point.
It doesn’t matter the weather — it’s stunning either way.
Which awards or accolades mean the most to you, and why?
We won Café of the Year a few times with The Argus which really helped us in the early days, but the real reward is retaining our original customer base whilst attracting new customers.
How would you describe the concept at Mac’s Café in Kemp Town, and how does it differ from Roedean Café?
Mac’s is another Brighton legend that has been going for over 70 years.
It has always been known as a proper builder’s café, although a greasy spoon without the grease.
They are very similar food-wise where ingredients are concerned, although Roedean has a more varied menu including classics like Caesar Salad, Club Sandwiches and smoked salmon.
What do you love most about living and working in Brighton?
The sea and the people.
Where does Poul Jensen like to eat in Brighton?
There are so many fantastic venues, we are slowly getting round to trying them all.
But if I had to — we do like a cheeky chowder at Riddle & Finns for lunch, and Isaac was a fav for dinner.
How has Instagram and social media helped you connect with customers and promote your cafés?
Our brother-in-law does the Roedean Cafe social media and it’s a great way of informing our customers of what we are up to, particularly with the car events.
What’s next for Roedean Café and Mac’s Café in terms of future plans or developments?
Both Brighton cafés take a lot of looking after as they are old buildings near the sea. We have just had both venues painted this summer and have built and planted up the secluded garden at Mac’s cafe in Kemptown.
