In this interview, we speak with Anna Reilly of Fourth and Church, one of Brighton’s most talked-about wine-led destinations. Anna shares her journey into hospitality, the vision behind creating a space that celebrates great wine and seasonal food, and what sets the venue apart in a competitive scene. From curating an exceptional wine offering to building a loyal following, she offers insight into the passion and precision behind running a standout neighbourhood spot.
Can you introduce yourself and your role at Fourth and Church?
I am the Wine Development and Events Manager, which in practice means having a multitude of hats on and covers everything from buying, marketing, social media, writing, events planning, tasting, hosting, tasting menu pairings training, wine list design…needless to say it is a fun and eclectic role!
What has your journey within Fourth and Church looked like so far?
Well I started off as a customer! I came for a glass of wine and snacks on Fourth and Church’s second day of opening. During lock down I was buying regular cases (maybe too regularly!) from Paul, the co-owner, and socially distanced (of course), started to talk more about wine and ended up sending him my wine notes of the bottles that I’d been trying. Later on that year, I decided for a complete career change and began working there as a server, I loved it! I developed into a restaurant manager and then developing events and wine tastings and overseeing private dining room bookings.
Can you share your career history and how you first got into hospitality and wine?
Although my first job was in a Seafood kitchen cleaning scallops, mussels and washing up (I smelt amazing) and I’d done stints running chalets in ski resorts, my path for 15 years was working in pensions and law enforcement!
It wasn’t until lockdown that, like a lot of people, I reevaluated what I was doing with my life and where I wanted to be.
I’d always obsessed about food and wine and wanted to follow my passion. I just wish I had made that move years ago!
What do you enjoy most about working at Fourth and Church?
I work with a fantastic, passionate and wonderful team which makes everyday a joy. We are also very, very lucky to have many wonderfully loyal guests and customers which over the years have become friends. I am also immensely proud of what Fourth and Church offers from our service, fantastic food and the 100s and 100s of bottles of wine that makes up the best wine list in Brighton (in my opinion!). I enjoy being able to share my love wine with both my team and our guests on a daily basis.
How would you describe your approach to guiding guests through the wine list?
Be inquisitive! My focus is on making sure that the guest enjoys what is in their glass but I also like to lead people to try different things. We have a huge selection of wines specialising in small producers and indigenous grapes and like to share why we are different from offerings in chain restaurants and supermarkets. We always strive to make guests feel welcome and never judged, wine needs to be accessible to all! We have a ban here at Fourth and Church on pretentious language!
Can you tell us more about Fourth and Church’s focus on Spanish wines?
Fourth and Church was inspired by the busy wine bars of Jerez and Seville and all of the team are super passionate about Spanish wines and sherry in particular, especially after a recent team trip to Jerez!
Over the past few years Spain has been having a culinary revolution and an explosion in innovative wine making from a new generation of exciting winemakers.
Areas such as Cadiz especially are offering new wines expressing individual parcels within vineyards, resurrecting wine making methods and reviving old clones. Some of these winemakers are pushing the boundaries of what it is possible to create from humble grapes such as Palomino, and we find this one of the most exciting wine developments of the last few years!
We love to share our excitement with our guests through pairing these Gastronomique wines with our dishes.
What wine qualifications or training have you completed to support your role?
Everyday is a learning day, I wake up thinking about wine and food pairings and every spare moment is spent reading or talking about wine. It is also important that I taste every wine that we have at Fourth and Church so that I am able to recommend pairings and bottles for our guests to enjoy.
On top of this I am three quarters of the way through the Diploma in wine, one of the highest qualifications that you can take. It is tough but enjoyable!
How important are visits to vineyards or producers in shaping your understanding of wine?
Very! They underpin the relationship between the land, the vine, the grape, winemaker and what ends up in your glass. This truly gives you a deep understanding of the sense of place and people of where the wine originates.
What advice would you give someone aspiring to build a career in wine and hospitality?
Enjoy it! You have to be passionate and obsessed about food and wine! You need to want to make your guests happy and comfortable in your venue. It can be a tough industry but also the most exhilarating and I cannot be happier that I am in it!
Finally, what are your favourite places for breakfast, lunch, and dinner across Brighton, Hove, or Sussex?
I love Jo&Co for breakfast! Pete and Jo always welcome me with open arms and a smile and it’s a great place to start your day.
For a blow out lunch or dinner I love Furna and Mare. Both have exceptional teams and the food is always on point.
For a weekday lunch treat I love dim sum (slightly too much) at China Gardens or also love Uni Thai for a punchy salad.
