We meet Andy MacKenzie, Head Chef at Pearly Cow, set to open in Brighton this October. Andy has worked at some incredible restaurants in Brighton and beyond, and we were lucky enough to hear how his journey began. Inspired by his two uncles—both chefs on his father’s side—Andy followed in their footsteps, starting with a three-year apprenticeship at Gleneagles. From there, the rest, as they say, is history.
What excites you most about Pearly Cow?
The chance to open a fantastic new restaurant in Brighton, where we can use the best ingredients from the local area.
What is your role in this new restaurant and hotel for Brighton?
I’ll be the Head Chef of the hotel, overseeing all aspects of food.
Pearly Cow will be on Brighton’s seafront overlooking the iconic West Pier, what will diners expect to experience?
We’ll be using great local dry-aged meat and the freshest fish and we’ll let the ingredients do the talking, cooking simply over open-flame, or serving raw on ice. Pearly Cow has a relaxed vibe with an open kitchen just wait until you try our beef fat chips – they’re legendary.
Tell us about your kitchen team, what are their backgrounds and what can we expect?
We have collected some of the best chefs from the Brighton area with experience at Soho House and the Chop House in London.
We read that your uncles and your grandma have inspired you with your culinary passion in the past, tell us more?
Both my uncles from my father’s side were chefs, I followed one of them to Gleneagles where I did a three-year apprenticeship, and I had the pleasure of working with the other at Swynford Paddocks Country House Hotel in Suffolk.
My grandmother was a fantastic cook who I spent many hours making jam and cakes with as a child during the holidays.
Give us a whistle stop tour of your career in hospitality?
I started working in a small hotel in the town I grew up in, in Devon when I was 13, after this I moved to Birmingham to go to catering college for 2 years.
I was then lucky enough to get my first proper job at Gleneagles. I was here for 4 years, I then moved to London to work with Anton Mosimann at the Belfry in Belgravia. I moved from here to Nico at 90 Park Lane for 2 years.
I then went to work in Georgia with one of my uncles in Tbilisi.
I then came back to the UK to help a friend out at the Feathers Hotel in Ludlow.
I then went to work for Paul Heathcote.
Then Swynford Paddocks with my other uncle.
I then followed my now wife to Australia where I worked in Sydney at a Moroccan restaurant called Fez.
Coming back to the UK we moved to Brighton where I helped open The Seven Dials restaurant.
Then on to Drakes where I worked for 10 years.
I moved from here to Woodlands Park Hotel in Cobham for a couple of years.
From the Woodlands I went to the Half Moon in Kirdford for 18 months.
I then work at Goodwood Hotel as Head Chef.
Then to Soho House in Brighton.
Then The Saltroom.
And now Pearly Cow Brighton.
What are your favourite dishes on the menu?
I love the Sussex wagyu, and really enjoy working with all the fantastic fish suppliers, but if push came to shove the beef fat chips are very special (IYKYK!).
What do you like most about working in hospitality in Brighton?
I’ve been in and around Brighton for nearly 24 years now and LOVE the city.
It has some amazing food venues and amazing local Sussex suppliers.
You like to support local, ethical and sustainable suppliers, tell us about this and can you give examples?
I have worked with Trenchmore Farm for many years and love what they have done, the animal husbandry is second to none and this shows in the meat they supply, also BNFS and MCB supply some of the best local fish in the country – it’s super fresh and right on our doorstep.
Munnieries have been working with small farms in Sussex and Kent for years now and have the best local vegetables and fruit.
Orchard Farm has the most amazing eggs.
Beals farm has some of the best charcuterie I have ever tried here or abroad.
A dish no one could convince you to like—does a dish like this exist?
Taramasalata and lava breads, just no for me.
Most challenging moment at Pearly Cow so far?
Delays.
What qualities do you look for in new team members?
Reliability and work ethic.
Favourite style of cuisine?
Classical French, I love spending time in France and love the standard of everyday foods.
What makes you happy?
Spending time with my family and helping out at Seaford Rugby club.
What do you do to relax?
Play (badly) and coach Rugby, travel as much as I can, walk my dog Charlie on the South Downs.
When dining out in Brighton or Sussex, where would you visit for brunch and dinner and why?
Really enjoy Deco at the Saltdean Lido.
It’s nice to have a great place to eat on my doorstep.
I love the Permit Room, unfortunately with a young family we don’t get out much but Etch is amazing, Little Fish Market also.
And you can’t beat the Saltroom or Coal Shed (pictured) for amazing steaks and fish.
Favourite kitchen gadget?
I Love working with the charcoal ovens, and you can’t beat a Pacojet.
Best piece of advice you can offer an aspiring chef?
Listen and take in as much info as you can, work in as many amazing restaurants and hotels as you can, and don’t be in a hurry to get promoted – learn your trade first.