The lure of a night off
I love good food, and it’s a pleasure I’ve tried to share with my children – with varying degrees of success. My youngest loves fruit and meat but won’t touch crispy cheese; the middle one is mad about macaroni. You can see where this is going…
At home, the dinner table can quickly turn into a battlefield when ‘new, yucky’ foods are introduced, and even old favourites fall out of fashion with alarming regularity. Cooking can feel like a thankless task. That’s why, when there’s the chance of a night off, I’ll take it. Yes please.
Pearly Cow
We’re a Sunday dinner sort of family, trying to keep it as a reliable moment to check in with each other. But it’s often rushed and bookended with bag packing, lost uniform and forgotten homework. Last weekend, we happily left all of this behind us as we set off for a roast at Pearly Cow…
First impressions
If you haven’t visited this plush, lush, seafront haven yet, you’re in for a treat. Gorgeously designed, it’s a visual feast as well as a comfortable one. The whole family was impressed, marvelling at the décor as we sank into a deep banquette with plenty of cushions.
Family-friendly welcome
Our fellow diners spanned the generations, and though our kids were the youngest, no one seemed perturbed by their presence. Pearly Cow team offered a warm welcome, colouring pencils and an excellent children’s menu. Time to relax.
What to drink?
As you might expect, the Sunday Roast here is a swanky affair, with the option of two or three courses. We all wanted everything and went for three. While we studied the menu, I sipped a flute of Chapel Down Brut Reserve, my husband enjoyed a half of Longman Pale Ale, and the kids happily ordered extra-special fruit iced-teas. Everybody’s happy!
A plate of fresh bread rolls arrived with whipped, salted beef dripping butter. Clever, nostalgic, oh so indulgent.
Starters: oysters, parfait & tacos
Our eldest – now 15 – has graduated to the main menu, and all the years of rejected offerings are finally starting to pay off. She’s branching out, it’s exciting. And when your kid asks for oysters, well, then you know you’ve won.
So a few fresh oysters “straight from the sea!” arrived on our table with sauce mignonette. We also ordered a silky, umami-rich mushroom parfait with charred sourdough, and a trio of tacos.
The oysters were fabulous. Pearly Cow serves its oysters in oversized shells packed with ice – dramatic and effective. I’ve tried a variety since the restaurant opened, and they never disappoint. If you’re a fan, I’d thoroughly recommend them.
The Trio
The tacos are another house speciality. Each crisp shell revealed one of three fillings: salted cod & crab with preserved lemon and nori mayonnaise; dill-cured salmon with Dijon dressing; and roasted red pepper with goat’s curd, olive and sweet onion gel. All delivered a mouthwatering flavour punch with satisfying crunch. If pressed to pick a favourite, I’d say the salted cod and crab, though I could easily change my mind next time.
From the children’s menu, the younger two chose chicken Caesar tacos. They wanted more, but we reassured them that plenty was still to come.
A Great Choice
For mains, there’s a strong choice including a vegetarian nut roast (vegan on request). My husband and I opted for the Trenchmore roast beef – meltingly soft and full of flavour – Trenchmore being the final word in local quality. Our daughter chose the crispy pork belly with all the crackling crunch you could hope for.
Each dish came with a towering Yorkshire pudding and charred carrot, plus generous sides of crisp roasties, seasonal vegetables, rich meaty gravy and bubbling cauliflower cheese. No stone was left unturned.
Smart wine pairing
The team recommended a La Flor Malbec to accompany our roast. Tannic, rounded and well structured, it was the perfect pairing for the beef.
Crumble For All!
For dessert, we all ordered the seasonal blackberry and apple crumble, except my husband, who’s French (at least in this respect) and went for the cheese plate. The hot crumble arrived with jugs of custard and scoops of refreshing milk ice cream – no decision needed. More sighs of contentment. Every crumb disappeared.
Home and Happy
At the end of the evening, we thanked our hosts, headed home merrily and enjoyed an early night – untroubled by washing up and ready to start the week on a high. What a wonderful treat.
