“Open Minds Open Doors”
When I invited my friend to The North Star from Team Domenica, she immediately knew where I meant. Partly because of this Brighton pub’s special purpose, and partly because of its outstanding central location opposite the Royal Pavilion.
Across every layer of service at The North Star – from the bar to the kitchen to the floor – young people are finding their feet in the working world and growing in confidence to support their futures. This is all part of Team Domenica’s mission as a charity: supporting people with learning disabilities and autism by giving them opportunities for employment. “Open Minds Open Doors” could not be a more fitting mantra.
The best part? Supporting The North Star is so easy, because the food, drinks and service are superb. You wouldn’t know that the pub functions partly as a training space, because it completely holds its own, serving perfect pub classics in the heart of the city.
Now, let’s open the doors to the menu.
What You’ll Love
- A pub with real purpose – your meal supports training and employment opportunities for young people with learning disabilities and autism.
- A truly central location – ideal for a pre-theatre dinner, a post-wander pint, or a meet-up that’s easy for everyone.
- Proper pub classics – comforting favourites with just the right amount of flair.
- Cocktails and pints you’ll actually remember
- An easy “yes” for groups – relaxed, welcoming, and accessible to all.
Drinks First
As Picante Meg, I am completely incapable of reading a menu and not ordering a spicy marg. It can be risky if it’s the first thing on the list, as it’s unlikely I’m going to keep reading. Similarly, my plus-one has yet to join me for a drink and resist a martini.
When ordering a picante, I’m hoping for two things: one, a spicy salt rim; two, spice in the drink itself. Both of these needs were met. Based on the quality of these two classic cocktails, I’m confident that any drink you order will impress.
A Great Place to Start
For starters, we ordered the Three Ham Hock Croquettes and the Crispy Salt & Pepper Squid. Perhaps this is a dramatic statement, but I think the taste of a croquette is entirely irrelevant if the outside isn’t crisp. If that first bite is soft and doesn’t shatter, I’m immediately disappointed.
You might have guessed where I’m going with this (and if not, the picture should help): the outside was supremely crunchy and held its structural integrity. Obviously, the filling is still very important, and the braised ham hock with vintage cheddar did not disappoint. Fantastic start.
We kept the starters crispy, and the salt & pepper squid was another triumph. I think the reason I’m so exacting with the crunch is because most of the time, it’s an indicator of freshness. With squid, you want that lightness of batter; you want it to be tender and not chewy; and you want it well-seasoned so the only thing it needs is a big squeeze of lemon. Another expertly executed dish.
Classics: Properly Done
The starters and small plates menu is really impressive, and if I was only able to order from that section, I wouldn’t have minded. I’ll be going back for the Black Pudding Scotch Egg and the Pork & Chutney Sausage Roll, that’s for sure.
We live in the era of the gastropub – something I’m very grateful for. But sometimes, you just want the time-honoured classics done properly. All the favourites are available, all with a culinary flair. I had the bangers and mash, but it was far from ordinary.
Venison sausages, creamy mash and roasted shallot gravy. The venison sausages were so tasty, with a subtle game flavour that actually reminded me a lot of the boerewors sausages we get in South Africa (usually made with a combination of beef, pork, and/or lamb). The venison sausage flavours were subtle but really effective: earthy, fatty, delicately seasoned, coarsely textured and sustainable too!
I think you can tell a lot about a place by the quality of the classic dishes, which was proven correct with the North Star burger. I’m also partial to ordering anything that has the venue’s name in the title… They’re basically asking you to order it, right?
Homemade beef patty, lettuce, pickles, seeded bun, chips. No need to reinvent the wheel – just do it well (but never well-done).
A Lil Extra for the Table
There’s something about dining with another person that possesses my rational mind – the one that knows I probably only need a main course – and convinces it we cannot possibly go on without sides. Nine times out of 10, it is way too much food and completely unnecessary, but 10 times out of 10, I’m very happy to have done it.
The truffle mac & cheese proved that I should never doubt this instinct. Creamy, well-seasoned, and topped with herby crispy onions.
Best Saved for Last
I’ve not got a massive sweet tooth – I’m more of a truffle mac & cheese than a dessert gal. But when there’s a sticky toffee pudding on the menu, this all goes out the window. However, I will want to throw it out the window if it’s too dry.
As you’ll see from the pool of butterscotch sauce it is swimming in, and the ice cream slowly softening on top, this was not an issue. I feel like people always say that a dessert “wasn’t too sweet”, but the reality is that this was very sweet – in the very best way.
Home Away from Home
The unspoken charm of the pub is that it feels like an extension of home. The North Star has all the ease of relaxing at home, without any of the post-meal dread of washing up, or the ambience of laundry drying on the radiator.
It’s unpretentious, yet feels like a treat, and I really think you should make your way here next time you’re in the mood for some pub comforts. Did I mention they do Sunday roasts? If you’re heading into town, book a table and make a night of it – come for the proper pints, stay for the pub classics, and leave knowing you’ve supported something genuinely brilliant.
