Last week we booked our holiday to France – the ferry, the campsite, the works. I love France, my husband loves France, the kids love France. But alas, our holiday is still six long months away. Or so we thought…
On our arrival at Mange Tout we were instantly transported to our favourite place in the world. We were met with a warm welcome from our host Joseph, music bubbling in the background, the gentle hum and chatter among the other patrons, and a big, beautiful menu of French delights written on the wall. It may well have been a wet February afternoon outside, but as we took our seats indoors we were in a French bistro, living our best lives.
What You’ll Love
- Authentic French bistro atmosphere that instantly transports you
- A generous seasonal menu packed with classic French small and large plates
- Standout dishes like scallops with squash purée, beef bourguignon, and Normandy-style moules marinière
- A thoughtful natural wine list featuring organic, low-intervention producers
- A lively, welcoming dining room perfect for long lunches
A Brighton institution with Gallic charm
It’s worth mentioning the décor too – understated but spot on. With local artists’ work adorning the walls, soft, warm, diffused lighting, plants climbing around us, and, for a sunnier day, outside seating beneath the Parisian-style canopy. Mange Tout is one of Brighton’s best and longest-established restaurants, and they know exactly how to bring a little bit of France to our very British seaside town.
What also stands out with this restaurant is the clientele. We were there on a long-awaited (and long overdue) lunch date, but we were surrounded by all walks of life. There were twenty-somethings (giving away my age…), solo diners, old friends catching up over brunch, newborn babes in arms, toddlers in highchairs and those on a working lunch. With not an empty table in the house, it’s clear why Mange Tout remains one of Brighton’s most popular bistro spots. And though there were none during our visit, I know that canine friends are very welcome too.
A menu that captures the spirit of French Cuisine
Now, on to the food. And where to start? Whilst we arrived at the tail end of brunch, that was not what we were there for. We wanted a proper lunch. Full-blown, decadent, delicious déjeuner. Stretching from floor to ceiling, the mouth-watering and totally comprehensive menu called to us. Frequently changing, with sustainable ingredients locally sourced where possible, the small and large plates beckoned us to choose.
Though before we could make any decisions on the food front, we ordered a carafe of the Bergerie de la Bastide. Like the food, the ‘natural wines’ here come from organic agriculture, with a low-intervention approach to viticulture. With a cool glass of the 2024 Grenache Blanc blend from Languedoc, we were now ready to tackle the ordering.
Elegant starters that set the tone
After some umming and ahhing I settled on the scallops. Served on a beautiful squash purée, with a hint of spring onion and decorated with the most delightful little violets and pea shoots, they were divine and full of surprises. With a punch of capers and the bite of radish, Mange Tout was off to a very strong start indeed.
My date went for the Jerusalem artichokes, served in an intensely creamy Roquefort velouté sauce. If there was still any question as to whether we had transported ourselves across the Channel, this settled it.
The Brits simply cannot do cheese in the same way as the French, and this was absolutely next level. The crispy kale and pistachio added both texture and flavour. I insisted (as all good dates do) on going halves with our dishes, and having finished off the last morsel of artichoke, I was desperate to pick up the bowl and lick it clean. But I remembered my table manners – the French don’t lick their plates. In the end, I resorted to the spoon.
Classic French comfort for the main event
Now on to the plat principal.
The rich beef bourguignon was served over a bed of cheesy, garlicky, buttery aligot mash. It was like no mash I’ve had before. The beef, slow-cooked in a rich red wine sauce, pulled apart and melted in the mouth. The crispy kale made a welcome second appearance, and the tiny pickled onion and Brussels sprouts added an interesting element to this classic French dish.
It’s worth noting the portion sizes here too. Mange Tout is not messing about. The dishes were more than generous. Whilst we were being decadent with a starter before mains, these dishes stand alone and will leave you absolutely satisfied.
The moules marinière was also something to write home about. When we ordered it Joseph asked if we wanted cream. “Yes,” we replied in synchrony, without taking a breath. Too keen!? We were not disappointed – this was Mange Tout’s Moules Marinière Normande – a heartier take on the classic recipe, with strips of smoky pancetta and mushrooms nestled amongst the enormous mussels. No fiddly half-opened shells here – they were all meaty and ready to be devoured. Seasoned with the most delightful little green, which on asking we discovered was micro-parsley. There were no regrets with this choice.
And of course we had planned ahead to mop up that delectable creamy sauce with a side of frites. Honestly some of the finest, skin-on, crunchy chips I’ve ever had. I would go back for them alone. Served alongside a delightful saladette, this was the lunch of champions.
A sweet finish to a lovely lunch
Now we were at this stage of the game – quite full – when Joseph offered us dessert. And who were we to refuse? We shared the chocolate mousse. Beautifully presented, it was the perfect size, adorned with cream, the most tender redcurrants, and a sprinkling of our newly discovered friend, micro parsley. The mousse was fluffy and light, with that slightly bitter aftertaste that I love, and words can’t really do justice to the burst of redcurrants in the mix. And of course, thanks to Joseph’s recommendation, we topped it off with an espresso martini. Sublime.
Why book Mange Tout for lunch
Other French-inspired bistros I’ve been to have tended to lean towards the stuffy and pretentious, but a visit to Mange Tout feels like you’ve stumbled across a café in provincial France that does delicious, complex food. I’ve always known Mange Tout for its brunch, but this visit proved their lunch is just as memorable.
For a relaxed French bistro lunch in Brighton, Mange Tout is well worth booking a table for.
