The Draw of Italian Dining
So, there’s a new movie out about a man who opens a restaurant in New York with Italian Nonnas (grandmothers) as the chefs. The minute I saw it advertised I knew it was for me: a feel-good movie about opening an Italian restaurant, the highs and lows of risking everything on a new business, a passion for food, jeopardy and (spoiler alert) the happy tears when it all works out. Draw the curtains – grab the chocolate – I’m sold.
I watched the movie the night after I went to Tutto, and it got me thinking about our relationship with Italian cuisine.
Ask anyone about their travels to Italy and food will, undoubtedly, form a huge part of their story.
Everyone has a tale to tell about walking down a side street and finding the place the locals eat, or the lasagne al Forno that blew their minds. In fact, the decision about whether Italian food should be considered an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO is due this December. That says it all.
Heart and Soul on Your Doorstep
So how do you capture that magic in Brighton? In my view, Tutto has done it and more. Despite the presumed lack of grandmothers in the kitchen, the food could easily go toe-to-toe with any provincial kitchen, fooling you into believing yourself there, in the rolling Italian landscape.
The welcoming decor creates real charm; a perfect blend of style and comfort, regardless of whether you are a table of two or a wedding party. Indeed, the contemporary, classy aesthetic is warm and inviting, and totally reflective of the menu you’ve come to enjoy.
For me, however, Tutto has achieved something even more enchanting. Where heart and soul is the pinnacle of Italian food, it is also the beating rhythm of Brighton itself – la famiglia che ti scegli: the family you choose.
Tutto invites everyone to indulge in a meal steeped in finesse, but with the comfort of a family gathering. The dishes are made to share and so the experience is much more about the communal feast than individual dishes.
When we began our evening, the restaurant buzzed with a mix of large groups, friends having a Friday catch up and people enjoying the post-work freedom with great food and good company.
By the time we hit dessert, the atmosphere had softened, and couples enjoyed a more intimate, romantic setting. We weren’t invited as customers, we were invited in as friends. That’s something special.
Where to begin
Our helpful server recommended a couple of snacks to start. Olives can make or break an experience for me. Nocarella Olives are popular for a reason and their vibrant flavour did not disappoint. Having said that, the star of the snack show was the Truffle and Taleggio Pizzette.
Straight from the fire, bubbling at our table, this delicious morsel was beyond delightful. It ticked all the boxes; great crunch, balanced flavours and left you wanting more.
The Antipasti menu blends traditional with creative. We shared the Scamorza & Vegan Nduja Arancini and the Burratina with pea & broad bean pesto. Both superstars in their own right, they complemented each other beautifully. The Arancini had heat, without overpowering the subtle cheese, and featured that delightful crisp of breadcrumbs around the perfectly cooked rice. In contrast, the burratina was perfectly creamy, with the added fresh zing from the pea and broad beans. Separately, both dishes offered a taste sensation; together, they sang.
Drinks anyone?
The drink selection is superb; for a non-alcoholic option, the staff recommended a fabulous Aranciosa from their alcohol-free cocktail selection. For those partaking in a more traditional aperitif, the Petal and Stem was as pretty as it was fragrant. The wine list champions Italian vineyards (as it should) and the Barbera D’alba was a superb choice to accompany our food choices.
The Main Event
We decided to share one pasta dish and a secondi plate. We went classic; Beef Ragu Parpadelle and Chicken Milanese. These were an absolute highlight of the evening. The Ragu was deep, sumptuous and indulgent with a rich meaty flavour, balanced by perfectly cooked pasta. It had that sensation of melting in your mouth but maintaining its texture – magic.
The Milanese? Just have it delivered to my door every lunchtime please. The coating was crisp and light, whilst the chicken itself burst with flavour. Again, having these two dishes side by side demonstrated the care in the curation of the menu; every dish worked as harmoniously as they did individually. We treated ourselves to a side of woodfired potatoes packed with punchy flavour.
Il momento del dolce
I certainly didn’t need a dessert but if you are going to offer a Cherry & Amaretto Tiramisu, there’s not a chance I’m turning it down. What an end to a meal; total indulgence and worth every bite. My companion asked for an affogato, and they were more than happy to oblige.
Have you booked yet?
So should you go? Well, here’s the thing…halfway through our meal, the table next to us asked what we were eating. I practically leapt across the banquette to talk them through our menu choices, and I was only halfway through the meal. If that isn’t a resounding “yes”, I don’t know what is.
Cecily English is a travel consultant based in Brighton. Having recently launched her new website, Brighton, Bordeaux and Beyond, she specialises in curating holidays for people who love to explore culture, good food and a little bit of luxury.
