The Best Dinner Party
On the ancient Firle Estate in the East Sussex countryside, near Lewes, you’ll find a secret barn from which Stella and Griff of gastronomic Woodfire Camping acclaim are putting on a six-course sharing feast. Cooking seasonal vegetables and game over woodsmoke and fire, and serving it on long, candle-lit tables, it may well be the coolest ‘dinner party’ I’ll ever attend. Maybe I’ll just have to attend the two fiery feasts planned for 22 and 29 November to prove myself wrong.
I suspect this is the sort of occasion that changes a little bit every time, influenced by not just the weather and the company, but also by the availability of produce. Still, I want to give you a sense of the magical evening I enjoyed with my friends from the foodie community, trying my very best not to boast and make you jealous!
The Welcome
The menu is a modernised take on a traditional British shooting lunch, which champions sustainable Sussex game and produce. The cooking will already be underway when you stomp down the chalk path (mud-proof shoes encouraged) so you arrive to the delicious scent of woodfired cooking and a welcome drink. For us, this was a zesty sloe gin fizz.
This moment is a fantastic window for victims of dog-less households like my own to make some new furry friends. Newly acquainted Biscuit and Figgy – the sausage dogs – had a lovely time too, thanks for asking!
The complementary welcome drink was followed rather swiftly by a brilliant Negroni from the cash bar, which remains open throughout the afternoon and evening, stocked with signature cocktails, beers from Firle’s nearby Burning Sky Brewery, and a dynamic wine list.
Before the sun set and we ventured inside to eat, we nibbled on some rosemary, sea salt and olive oil-tossed popcorn, which, it turns out, is an ideal amuse bouche when you know you’re about to indulge. Just enough to take the edge off!
Read The Room
First, we need to discuss the ambience. Inside an old stone barn with wooden rafters, we found two long tables decorated with colourful gourds, plenty of candles, dried flowers, an eclectic mismatch of crockery, fairy lights, fir cones, lampshades and a Persian rug hanging for good measure. It felt a little bit like something out of the Magic Faraway Tree.
Let The Feasting Begin
I’ve left you waiting long enough: THE FOOD. Oh, the glorious food! Our first course was hot-smoked chalk-stream trout on rye with crème fraiche and horseradish. The trout was fatty but firm, and so meaty and flavoursome that all it needed were subtle touches like the crème fraiche to really shine.
My friend, Becky, who had come along with me for the meal, said something along the lines of, “Is this what trout always tastes like?! Why has nobody told me how delicious trout is!?” While I know this was particularly special and served expertly, I think the chefs might be personally responsible for a new trout convert and lifelong fan.
Next up, we enjoyed a wild venison taco with pico de gallo and pink onions. Again, the simplicity allowed the juicy venison to do its thing. Venison can be intense, with a flavour I don’t always like. It’s hard to describe other than with the word “gamey”, which I think is overused given that it is largely meaningless (all game is gamey, no?) This was not, however, too gamey; it had that signature savoury flavour with earthy undertones, it had a richness to it, and it was tender.
After the depth of the venison, the pheasant ravioli with jus and crisped sage was exactly the contrast we needed. I had a little taste of the vegetarian one, which was spiced butternut, and that was pretty wonderful too. I was particularly satisfied with the pheasant one, though, because it’s something I wouldn’t ordinarily have ordered.
It was around this point that I realised this had to be the best way to explore the different types of Sussex game.
Whole roasted partridge, bread sauce, braised red cabbage. An excellent final game course, because it was filling but not overpowering. The whole bird was a climactic savoury finale after the complex range of flavours that had built up to this point. It didn’t take long before I was breaking the bird apart with my hands like a medieval knight. Regretfully for that mental imagery, wine was served in a glass, not a chalice.
The lemon posset with crunchy granola and herbs was possibly the only way this meal could end. It was velvety in texture, creamy and refreshing. It was a gorgeous little citric palate cleanser, resetting the taste buds for upcoming marshmallows cooked by us (immense talent required) over the fire pit.
Gathered Round The Fire
You might think toasting marshmallows outside would bring out the inner child in everyone, but ironically, it brought out my mother in me. I have such distinct memories of her telling me not to just set the marshmallow on fire by sticking it into the flames, but to slowly swivel it near the embers until it is golden brown. Becky’s entire marshmallow was a ball of blue fire at one stage and there I was, trying to talk sense into her. Full circle, eh?
This final touch seamlessly rounded off the most wholesome time spent catching up with old friends, making new ones and enjoying being outside. Though I live by the sea, there’s something uniquely comforting about being in the countryside.
It’s truly impressive the way the Woodfire Camping team have managed to facilitate an environment where you’re at one with nature while also enjoying modern food, as well as completely relaxed like you’re dining at home, while also being hosted so generously.
Luckily – there are two more Feasts Over Fire planned for this winter, so you can find out for yourself….book quickly for the most memorable evening of the season.
