Laura Stevens

Meet Brighton Food Reviewer, Laura Stevens

Laura has been eating food for over 40 years and has rather developed a taste for it. She consumes cookery programs and recipe books and, it turns out, she's not too shabby in the kitchen herself. She was born in Brighton but was soon whisked off to travel around England and France by her bohemian mother and didn't return to Brighton until she flew the nest at 18. She has now lived here all of her adult life, along with the rest of the people who thought they were just coming to Brighton to go to university but never left ("What can I say, Brighton rocks!"). Laura particularly enjoys spicy, highly flavoured foods such as Indian and Moroccan cuisine but is also a great fan of simple, vibrant Mediterranean fare and, of course, firmly believes you can't go far wrong with classic British cooking!

Favourite restaurant in Brighton and why?

Currently my favourite restaurant is Hotel Du Vin in Brighton. It is certainly not cheap but it is the perfect setting for a special anniversary treat. The décor is beautiful with plenty of highly polished, dark wood and shimmering, reflective surfaces. The high ceilings and generously spaced tables make it feel airy and opulent and the whole restaurant is intimately lit with antique fixtures and candles. More importantly, you'd be hard pressed to find a better plate of Moules Frites in Paris itself! Mouth-watering food in classy surroundings. Save up your pennies, wear your finest and enjoy every moment.

What's important when you visit a restaurant?

It goes without saying that good food is the priority. Quality, seasonal, local produce prepared with love by people who really care about food. However, eating out is not cheap and you are paying for more than just food in your belly.

It doesn't have to be the Ritz but basic cleanliness goes a long way..

There's nothing like a sticky table to put you off your fajita. You also need enough space to be able to relax and have a relatively private conversation without having to move your chair every five minutes so another diner can get to the loo. And finally, the service should be polite and helpful but not overly cloying, a simple smile goes a long way.

Which is your favourite well-known chef and why?

I have two favourite chefs at the moment and they couldn't be more different. On the one hand there is Tom Kerridge. A great, jolly giant of a man and an unapologetic carnivore whose food speaks to the soul! I have been lucky enough to visit The Hand and Flowers, his flagship pub in beautiful Marlow (the only pub in the UK to have been awarded two Michelin stars) and it was a truly visceral treat. If you've got the time (and I mean several days), try making his Jacob's Ladder (beef rib) recipe from his book Proper Pub Food. It is to die for!

At the other extreme stands Yotam Ottolenghi. A tall, softly-spoken, instantly likeable guy who is an advocate for all things Middle Eastern and Mediterranean.

His food is eclectic, fresh, colourful and truly delicious.

He is not vegetarian but loves vegetables and has a knack for making them the star of the show. His book Plenty is a must if you have vegetarian friends (trust me, they'll thank you for it). If you make nothing else, try his aubergine croquettes with tarragon aioli, yum!

Le Nantais Bistro – Hove – Evening Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 3rd May 2018

Outstanding French cuisine at Le Nantais Bistro! Le Nantais, literally “The Man from Nantes”, is a fantastic French bistro on Church Road, just west of Palmeira Square. On the bus route, and with a taxi rank nearby, it’s dead easy to get to and well worth the journey. Le Nantais in question is the brilliant…

L’Atelier Du Vin Brighton – Evening Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 1st May 2018

Shh, it’s our little secret! Through a discreet entrance next to Grow 40 in Kensington Gardens, North Laine, is L’Atelier du Vin, Brighton’s newest and arguably most enchanting wine and cocktail bar. The 1920’s-style prohibition bootlegger bar Is the brainchild of award-winning cocktail-maker Steve Pineau and Master Sommelier Dimitri Mesnard who, between them, designed and…

The Sussex Ox – Country Pub – Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 6th April 2018

The Sussex Ox review – Perfect escape from the city Book now Nowhere showcases William Blake’s “green and pleasant land” better than the utterly charming Sussex Ox near Alfriston in East Sussex. The Sussex Ox is a large, traditional, family–friendly country pub, with its own organic farm, serving the very finest local food and drink.…

Joe’s Cafe, Seven Dials, Brighton – Breakfast Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 19th November 2017

Now That’s a Breakfast Worth Getting Out of Bed For! In April 2017, Julia and professional chef Andy took up the reins at the multi award-winning Joe’s Café near Seven Dials in Brighton. With a glowing reputation built up over 27 years to uphold, and a loyal customer base to win over, they had their…

Steak-on-Sea at The Old Ship Hotel, Brighton – Dinner Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 15th November 2017

Not just for overnight guests… Located in the historic Old Ship Hotel on Brighton seafront is Steak-on-Sea. Don’t be fooled by the name though, there is so much more to this restaurant than ‘just’ excellent steak! The Old Ship has a cavernous dining room with a ceiling that disappears into the ether. Separated from the…

The Black Lion Pub, Brighton – Dinner Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 30th October 2017

How Have I Never Been to this Pub?! The Black Lion is right in the heart of The Lanes, incredibly popular and, as I was about to finally discover, a real gem! A weird Hammer House of Horrors style building on the outside, inside it is more reminiscent of a Star Wars set, with organic…

The Plough Inn, Rottingdean Village, Sussex – Evening Review

Posted by Laura Stevens on 24th August 2017

Picturesque pub in Rottingdean The Plough Inn is an impressive brick building standing proud next to the picturesque duck pond and village green at the heart of pretty Rottingdean. The pub originally dates back to the 1840s and is surrounded by beautiful old houses steeped in history. Despite the fact that it looks like parking should be…

FOOD REVIEW: The Revelator, food pub, Western Road

Posted by Laura Stevens on 7th June 2017

Latest addition to thriving city pub scene Located in a prime position on Western Road at the Brighton/Hove border is the latest addition to Brighton’s thriving pub scene. Being on the main drag and just a short walk from the sea front, The Revelator is dead convenient to get to on foot or by bus.…

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