Tucked away in a little nook of Kemptown, The Bell Tower (formerly known as Daddy Longlegs) is the newest addition to the Golden Lion Group, the people behind many of Brighton’s favourite pubs, including the much-loved Hove Place and all-time classic The Cricketers.
‘A Modern Take on a Traditional Boozer’
The perfect welcome on a freezing November evening, we stepped into the pub and were greeted by the deliciously festive smell of mulled wine. It had been snowing earlier in the day, which only added to the Christmassy feel. The Bell Tower describes itself as ‘a modern take on a traditional boozer’ – a pleasingly accurate description. They’ve achieved the feel of a classic cosy pub but elevated it with touches like linen bistro-style half curtains, wood-panelled walls, and an abundance of houseplants.
Settling into our snug booth, we scanned the drinks options. My faithful plus one, Sarah, chose a crisp glass of Pinot Grigio, while I opted for an alcohol-free Guinness. I’ve recently been dipping my toe into the world of low- and no-alcohol drinks, and Guinness Zero is my favourite so far. Highly recommended.
Small Plates to Start
We kicked things off with three small plates: the carrot schnitzel, the grilled butternut squash winter salad, and our wildcard pick – the cured salmon tartare. The carrot schnitzel immediately caught our attention as it was a first for us both, so it had to be the one we tried first.
A delicate dusting of garlicky breadcrumbs coated a tender carrot, drizzled with vibrant zhoug, and served on a bed of creamy white bean hummus—the perfect counterbalance to the nice hit of spice from the zhoug. Move over, chicken schnitzel—there’s a new kid on the block.
Once we’d finished scraping over who got the last bite of the carrot schnitzel, we moved on to the grilled butternut squash winter salad. It was everything I’d hoped it would be—earthy and comforting. You really can’t go wrong with a nice hunk of grilled squash.
A Bold Choice Pays Off
The cured salmon tartare was a bold choice, but it did not disappoint. A glossy, plump soy-cured egg yolk sat atop a stack of chopped cured salmon, with flower-like curls of pickled vegetables dressing the plate. The dish looked more like something you’d find in a high-end restaurant than your local pub. It was rich, creamy, and decadent, with a nice hit of dill. The cured egg yolk was salty, jammy, and moreish, while the pickled veg added a welcome acidic zing. It was deliciously rich – definitely a dish to share!
Mains with a Festive Twist
Perhaps it was festive cheer, or the wafts of mulled wine coming from the bar, but Sarah leaned into the Christmassy vibes and chose the Christmas burger. Craving something warming, I opted for the cioppino fisherman’s stew from the small plates menu.
My fish stew arrived in a stylish stoneware bowl, brimming with mussels, clams, prawns, and chunks of flaky cod, with two hunks of toasted sourdough balanced on the side. It was a surprisingly generous serving for something described as a small plate, but you’ll hear no complaints from me. The rich, sweet tomato and white wine broth, with just a hint of chilli, provided a delicious backdrop for the seafood. It was exactly the hearty winter-warmer I’d hoped for.
A Taste of Christmas
Sarah’s Christmas burger was oozing with spiced cranberry sauce and melting camembert, accompanied by a pile of golden chips. When I asked how it was, she simply replied, “It tastes like Christmas.” I stole a bite and was greeted with a moist, slightly pink-in-the-middle patty, sandwiched between cranberry sauce and gooey camembert. It really did taste like Christmas.
A Dreamy Dessert to Finish
We were both absolutely stuffed, but we couldn’t leave without attempting dessert. We ordered the dark chocolate mousse to share, along with two cups of peppermint tea to ease our very full stomachs.
The chocolate mousse was served in a little jam jar, with two great shards of honeycomb sticking out the top and a little scoop of frozen yogurt perched on the jar’s lid beside it. I plunged my teaspoon into the jar and retrieved a generous dollop of thick, creamy, indulgent mousse. Paired with a nibble of honeycomb, it tasted like a deconstructed Crunchie bar. Add that scoop of the tangy frozen yogurt, and it was, quite simply, heaven. Or, as Sarah described it, “outrageously good.” It was the perfect ending to a heart-warmingly cosy pub evening.
Thank you for having us, The Bell Tower—we’ll be back again soon.
