A NEW BEGINNING
It may have only opened its doors a few months ago, but many would agree that The Coconut Island has made a huge impression on Brighton in a very short space of time indeed. There are many reasons for this, of course, starting with the fact that its menu is themed around the food of Sri Lanka – which, while sharing some similarities with Indian cuisine, offers its own take on mouth-watering flavours, exploring that perfect balance between sweet and spice. The new establishment can be found on the Brighton and Hove border, just past Waitrose on Western Road, which is well connected thanks to its proximity to Churchill Square.
PURE ISLAND VIBES
The Coconut Island staff promise “you’ll feel like you have the sun on your face and the sand between your toes” and we’re pleased to say these words ring true. The front half of the restaurant is styled as beach huts with murals of magnificent lions, jubilant musicians, ox carts and islanders stilt fishing – an age-old tradition unique to Sri Lanka, which adds to the authenticity of the overall dining experience. The back section is deceptively large and even includes outdoor seating, which will undoubtedly prove to be a hit in the summer. With postcards and maps of the island historically known as Ceylon adorning the walls linking the dining rooms, it’s clear a lot of love and care has been put into matching the surroundings with the delicacies on offer.
PICK YOUR FLAVOURS
If you’re looking for food you won’t be able to get anywhere else, the hopper is a great place to start: an irresistible bowl-shaped pancake served with traditional condiments and an optional egg. Another Sri Lankan street food favourite is the kothu – chopped roti alongside mixed veg, which can be upgraded with beef, seafood or chicken. Other less common finds on the menu include the wattakka (a heavenly spiced pumpkin curry with coconut milk) and the healthy green salad (fresh gotu kola leaves with coconut, onion and chilli). There’s a lot to like here and it feels like we’ve barely begun.
FIRE IT UP
The Coconut Island was started by owner Keith, a music lover from the north of Sri Lanka, who built the concept from the ground up with Head Chef Dan and Head Of Operations Naveen. As well as giving everyone a royal welcome and gold-standard service, Naveen is also pretty nifty with a blowtorch – just ask for the Fire It Up or Skull On Fire cocktails and you’ll see what we mean. Even the Old Fashioned here gets smoked right before your eyes, adding even more depth to the oaky mix of bourbon and bitters. Watching cocktails get prepared with love in the corner tiki bar only adds to the anticipation – and be prepared for every table to turn around when your cocktail arrives shooting out flames almost a metre high. It’s very much a holiday experience at home, in that sense.
FOOD FOR THE SOUL
From the Fry section of the menu, the earthy shredded beetroot and street food-style chickpeas (cooked with onion, garlic and mustard seeds) are also bursting with an abundance of wonderful aromas. It’s nice to see a lot of the flavours coming from the high quality ingredients themselves.
There are certainly spices in the mix, but everything on the table feels fresh, well-tempered and, ultimately, very healthy – which is great news for those hoping to try as much as possible.
ADDING MUSIC TO THE FOOD
Whether you’ve come with little ones, with friends or on a date, there’s a sense of radiant positivity that will put just about anyone at ease here. The atmosphere is relaxed and informal, with a lot of classic 90s hits on the playlist to dial up the comfort and nostalgia. The staff are friendly and engaging – giving you the impression that no ask is too much, personifying the upbeat slogans you’ll find written on the various walls.
GOOD VIBES ONLY
Other dishes that will be bound to put a smile on your face include the pineapple curry, which is easily one of the spicier options on the menu, and the highly addictive fried paneer chunks that come glazed in an Indo-Chinese-style tomato sauce. And there’s no shortage of sides available, from basmati rice to roti flatbread in classic and grated coconut forms.
SWEETS AND TREATS
As for puddings, you can choose between straightforward ice cream or more unusual offerings like the watalappam (a Sri Lankan dessert made out of coconut milk, jaggery and cashew nuts) or the dope plantain (arrack battered plantain lightly drizzled with treacle) – the latter of which also receiving the blowtorch treatment to round off your meal with fireworks aplenty.
A RAINBOW OF DELIGHTS
Even on a Thursday evening, it’s great to see both the front and back sections of the restaurant packed out and full of smiles and laughter. Naveen and Dan join us at the end of their shift to explain more about the concept that’s seen so many returning customers in such a short space of time. The dishes are not overly spiced in a one-size-fits-all way, explains Dan. Instead all of the flavours are carefully curated for each and every option, though patrons are more than welcome to request some extra heat should they require it.
SEA YOU NEXT TIME
The spices are milled by hand in Sri Lanka specifically for the restaurant, Dan goes on to explain, and therefore add to the sense of uniqueness and character that’s palpable from the moment you step inside. He also prides himself on producing one of the most inclusive menus you’ll find in Brighton – which is yet another string to the proverbial bow here. Whether you love meat and seafood, or stick with a strictly vegetarian, vegan or gluten free diet, The Coconut Island is the kind of place that will leave you wanting to return.
