For many years, Lewes was something of a culinary paradox. Why – with all its tastefully attired, comfortably-off residents – were there so few decent restaurants? Yes, there are the usual chains. But surely all those denizens who clearly know their way around a Farrow & Ball colour chart demand more rarified grub?
Well recently they’ve started to receive it. Dill, Squisito, and Fork have all blazed a trail. Independent eateries serving up inventive food for diners with taste. Though sadly, the demise of Fork after 4 years shows how tough it can be for small restaurants aiming high.
But No. 34 is a welcome addition to this select and adventurous club.
Straight From The Heart
It’s been open for a year now. And owner Hugo, his son Tom, and his partner Susan have done wonders with the space and a carefully considered approach to food and wine. At its heart, what they wanted was something that suited their tastes. A place that they would like to go to, with dishes that they would like to cook and eat, and wine that they would like to drink.
It’s refreshing when something comes from the heart like that. You can feel it. And you realise how many restaurants are the result of some investment firm’s trend analysis focus group.
A Sense Of Sophisticated Ease
There’s an old world sense of drama to No. 34. It inhabits a former printer’s building on Lewes High Street, and “W.E. Baxter Ltd, Printers, 1802” is emblazoned at the top of the facade in nicely restored gold paint. The huge wrap-around glass windows at the front act as a stage curtain – framing the inside from without, and the outside from within.
What comes across when you step inside is a sense of sophisticated ease. No.34 mixes deli, bistro, and wine bar vibes with confidence.
A long zinc-topped island flanks one side of the room, and it’s this that establishes the deli atmosphere. It’s got one of those wonderful charcuterie slicing machines, and the island is crowded with breads, plates, bottles and jars.
At the room’s rear an Edith Piaf album stands next to a record player. The stereo is tuned to the French radio station, FIP. A nicely patina’d parquet floor, wooden tables, earthenware water jugs, and old Golden Syrup tins for cutlery complete the relaxed feeling.
Simply Delicious!
My wife and I have an early evening table and we’re greeted at the door by the chef, Axel. An attentive young waitress seats us, and takes us through the menu. It’s nicely short. High quality ingredients are front and centre. This is part choice, and part necessity. Axel prepares all the dishes in the heart of the restaurant at the zinc-topped island, with one chef’s oven doing all the heavy lifting. So the food needs to be delicious, and fuss-free. It is.
I begin with a starter of Ortiz anchovies, bathed in a pool of citrus oil. The firm little fish fillets pack an almighty umami wallop atop their chariot of toasted baguette rounds. The Mediterranean on a plate.
My wife goes for the cauliflower soup with mustard creme fraiche. This is all soothing earthy base notes with the warmth of that mustard coming through to enliven the sinuses. It’s wonderfully accomplished in its simplicity.
She follows this with an exceptionally delicious piece of hake, seared, with braised fennel and a blood orange aioli. The hake is perfectly cooked. The fennel is soft and sweet. The aioli is a mellow delight.
I chose the lentils with grilled baby leeks and labneh with fresh herbs. The herbs are led by tarragon with its unique, almost mouth-numbing brightness. It’s a nice foil to the comfort of the lentils and leeks.
Three Little Words…
But No. 34 is as much a wine bar as it is a restaurant. Each wine on the list comes with a three-word explainer. My 2021 Clos Lapeyre Gros Manseng is ‘expressive, steely, focused’. My wife’s La Combe de la Lune Grenache Blanc Viognier is ‘generous, citrus, steely’.
To finish I have moist, sticky orange cake with creme fraiche. There is also some satisfying chewy caramelised something or other that left little bits in my mouth to nibble on afterwards. She goes for a chocolate pot topped with hazelnuts. It’s silky and light and scraped entirely clean.
Upping The Lewes Game
When we’ve finished I start quizzing our waitress for the story of the place. She tells me about Hugo, Tom, and Susan – and then points out Hugo and Susan a couple of tables away, and would I like to meet them? Of course! The couple have no complaint about me gatecrashing what I assume was their very pleasant evening, and I pull up a chair.
Hugo’s no stranger to the restaurant game. He’s a restaurant consultant, and has set up eateries in his native Dublin as well as Scotland and London. Together Hugo and son Tom chose the menu (which changes every two weeks) and the wine. Susan looks after the design.
He points out No. 34 uses the same suppliers as London’s best restaurants. But here you’ll get the same exceptional fare for significantly less money. Thursday is steak night. Friday and Saturday they do whole fish on the bone. Sundays, it’s a roasted free-range chicken.
We’ll certainly be back.
