In the eight years since it first opened on Gardner Street in the North Laine district, Lavash has become an institution within Brighton’s dining scene. So much so that they ended up opening another branch on North Street just a few years later, bringing the mouth-watering flavours of the Middle East to locals and tourists alike. With family roots in Turkey, owner Cemal Ozkahraman decided to blend the signature dishes of his home country alongside those of neighbouring territories, so when you sit down to gaze upon the menu, your mouth will be watering in no time, because you’re essentially getting the very best of Turkish, Lebanese, Armenian, Egyptian, Syrian and Palestinian cuisine in one spot.
Why You’ll Love It
- Traditional Turkish grill theatre – visible flames, fresh lavash bread and perfectly charred meats straight from the tandoor.
- Brilliant value lunches – generous wraps, mezze and soups that won’t break the bank.
- A Middle Eastern flavour journey – Turkish, Lebanese, Armenian and more, all under one roof.
- Options for everyone – meat, veggie, vegan and gluten-free done properly.
- An upstairs holiday escape – chandeliers, exposed brick and a warm welcome in the heart of Brighton.
Lavashactually
A bit like the Christmas rom-com starring Hugh Grant and Martine McCutcheon, stepping inside Lavash quickly evolves into a love story. For today’s visit, we are at the North Street branch, and while the ground floor is more informal and café-like in feel, when you walk upstairs, you are immediately transported to an upmarket restaurant that could easily be somewhere far away, thematically enriched by an exposed brick wall, dried flowers and grand chandeliers. Many restaurants in Brighton try to go for that ‘holiday feel’ and, in all honesty, few could say they do it as well as Lavash. This area can be booked out for private dining, and Lavash can also provide catering for external functions and events.
Say My Name
The name Lavash comes from the thin leavened flatbread that’s traditionally baked in a tandoor or on a sajj, as is typical in the areas surrounding the Caspian Sea. In this restaurant, the tandoor is located downstairs in the kitchen that greets diners as they walk in.
The bread is first stretched on the gaddi cushion (bread pad) before being carefully stuck to the walls of the oven itself, with extremely high heat emanating from the clay balls directly beneath. The results speak for themselves – within a minute, the bread comes out with what looks like 100 bubbles across its surface. And it tastes every bit as good as it looks, pairing airiness and flavour into one perfect package.
Start of something new
The list of starters is quite extensive and impressive enough to leave you wondering how you are going to fit it all in. Options include mixed olives with feta cheese, stuffed Turkish pastry rolls known as börek, hummus with pomegranate, homemade tzatziki and baba ganoush. So you can see the dilemma here – but fret not – as there are also options for mixed mezzes and platters that include most of, if not all of, the above.
The first bite
They say the first bite is with the eye – and in the case of this visit, it’san extraordinarily colourful one, thanks to a mixed mezze that’s rich in vibrant tones, from greens and reds through to orange, purple and brown. It’s truly a banquet for all the senses. Our favouriteswere the tzatziki – the combination of yoghurt, cucumber and lemon making for a both heavenly and zesty dip for the flatbread – as well as the jaw-dropping baba ganoush made out of aubergine, garlic and tahini.
Drink to that
There’s no shortage of hot and cold beverages to complement your meal at Lavash Brighton – from your usual cappuccinos, fresh mint tea and freshly squeezed juices to specialist Turkish coffee, creamy cinnamon-led salep and a tangy fermented carrot and turnip drink by the name of salgam. And if you’re looking for something stronger, there’s a selection of beers from Turkish pilsner Efes to locally made IPAs and lagers, as well as spirits with mixers.
A toast to the coast
The wine selection is also impressive, and we chose a bottle of Lebanese red – the Clos St. Thomas Les Gourmets Rouge – to complement our adventure through the spices and aromatics found on the eastern side of the Mediterranean Sea. Made from grenache, mourvèdre and syrah in the Bekaa Valley, it packs notes of plum, dark berries and cherry alongside a hint of chocolate – a delicate balance that works so well it won a Decanter Silver award in 2021.
Main attraction
Whether you’re a meat-eater, vegetarian or vegan, there’s plenty for everyone at Lavash.
There are all kinds of platters, from chicken shawarmas and lamb çöp kebabs to spicy koftas and mixed meat dishes – most of which can be served in wraps. The same goes for the falafel bowls; whether you order the hummus, tzatziki or baba ganoush versions, you can also have them served all-in-one as a wrap.
Hello, is it halloumi you’re looking for
We went for the grilled halloumi and falafel wrap, as well as the grilled halloumi and tzatziki wrap, which come with sumac onions, roast peppers, red cabbage and salad leaves. If you like big chunky slices of squeaky cheese grilled to perfection, these options will be guaranteed to blow your mind.
Sweet dreams
If, like us, you always manage to save space for a treat at the end of your meal, you will be pleased to know that Lavash offer a pumpkin delight that’s served with ice cream and tahini, a premium baklava with pistachios and a traditional baklava – both of which come served with pomegranate sauce. And then, of course, you can also order Turkish coffee served with sweet lokum, brewed unfiltered using powder-fine ground beans in a special pot called a cezve.
Turkish delight
When you’re sat upstairs in Lavash’s North Street branch, it’s all too easy for the hours to float by. It’s a safe haven from the hustle and bustle of Churchill Square just around the corner and the natural excitement that comes with being in one of the city’s main shopping districts. The warm and friendly staff are more than happy to help guide you through the menu and whatever your dietary requirements might be – from plant-based to gluten-free – it’s the kind of place that will have everyone covered under one roof, and covered well indeed. Somehow, even when it’s busy inside, you still get the feeling this is one of Brighton’s best-kept secrets, which simply adds to the magic of it all.
