Inspired by Umbria
When I heard Cin Cin was hosting a feast inspired by Umbria – a region that’s like a second home to me – I knew I had to be there. This central Italian region holds a very special place in my heart. I’ve been visiting the area since I was a terrible teen, later got married there, and now take our children as often as possible. For a foreigner, I know the local food scene pretty well, and I love it.
Taking a Risk?
Dining out can sometimes feel risky when you’re attached to the authenticity of a cuisine. Could Cin Cin really capture the spirit of Umbrian food right here on our doorstep? At the end of a particularly long week, my husband and I were more than ready to find out, trusting that at Cin Cin we were in thoroughly capable hands.
Chef’s Counter: A Front-Row Seat
We were offered seats at the chef’s counter—a spot we were delighted to accept. We’ve always loved counter seating, especially when the kitchen is in full swing. What a delight to be able to see all the effort going into your delicious meal without having to lift a finger!
On this occasion, it was also a pleasure to chat with head chef Jamie – who is both a great chef and a thoroughly nice guy. He took a moment to explain the two-fold rationale behind these regular regional feasts. They offer diners a gastronomic tour of a specific part of Italy while also allowing the Cin Cin team to explore local specialities as inspiration for future menus. With Italy’s culinary diversity and intense regional competition, there are plenty of gems to uncover.
Bread and Cocktails
To be completely honest, Umbrian bread is not usually my favourite. A historic salt tax left a tradition of salt-free bread that some find bland. Torta al Testo—the region’s signature flatbread—served stuffed with your choice of filling—is a delicious exception. Cin Cin’s version was slightly softer and more yeasted than those I’ve had in Umbria, but it was filled generously with finely sliced Coppa and pecorino and served alongside marinated Nocellara olives. So no complaints from us!
We were offered a Nocino Sbagliato to start—a dangerously tasty prosecco cocktail mixed with walnut liqueur, red vermouth, and Malfy gin. If we hadn’t already agreed to the optional wine flight, I might have been tempted to order a second!
Lentil Soup with Wild Boar Sausages
The next course was pure comfort: an earthy Castelluccio lentil soup. Warming, soft, and wholesome, it was topped with wild boar sausages made in-house. Apparently the boars were from a forest in Hampshire. (Who knew?) Flavoured with plenty of black pepper, the sausages were rich and robust, perfectly complementing the lentils. A chilled Grechetto—one of Umbria’s popular yet lesser-known wines—work beautifully with the dish. If you see one on a menu, please don’t hesitate to try it.
Truffle Shoelaces
A steaming bowl of hand-made Strangozzi with a luxurious black truffle sauce followed. This Umbrian pasta, apparently named after its resemblance to shoelaces, was completely new to us. Thicker and more toothsome than spaghetti, the noodles were drenched in the thick velvety sauce which filled the air with its heady scent. A fruit-forward Sangiovese was the thoughtfully selected accompaniment.
Main Event: Crispy Porchetta with Silky Olive Oil Mash
By this point, we already felt thoroughly indulged, but we couldn’t help but be excited by what was still to come. We served Porchetta at our wedding, and here it was on the menu. What a treat!
Rolled pork, stuffed with rosemary, fennel, and garlic, had been roasted crisp on the outside and succulent on the inside. It’s so easy to get this wrong, but this was perfection. Sliced thickly onto the silkiest olive oil mash I’ve ever tasted and complemented by sides of wild mushroom ragù, savoury with plenty of umami, and sweetly glazed carrots. The meat was cleverly topped with tiny slivers of pickled fennel which added a bright note to this celebration of late autumn flavours! Not to be outdone, the earthy, tannin-rich Montefalco cut through the richness of the dish with wonderful precision. It really was as good as it sounds.
Dolce and Limoncello to Finish
No Italian feast would be complete without some delicious dolce—it’s the done thing so there’s no point in arguing about it. We greedily tucked into the decadent ’Castagnaccio’ chestnut cake, sprinkled with Vin Santo-soaked sultanas and served with a spoon of soft vanilla cream. How could we resist a little glass (or two!) of Cin Cin’s luminous homemade limoncello? A triumph.
What’s Next at Cin Cin?
Before we headed home, we grabbed a moment with Cin Cin’s owner, David, keen to hear about plans for 2025. You’ll be delighted to hear there’ll be more feasts to come (we’ll keep you up to date) and intriguingly there may be something new for opera fans. But before that, in the New Year, serious food fans can get seriously excited about the second instalment of Noodles v Pasta with friendly rivals Lucky Khao. Booking is open now.
Big thanks to David, Jamie, and the team for a very special evening—a ‘home from home’ experience—and bringing regional Italian cuisine to hungry Hove. Molte grazie ragazzi, a presto!
