Every so often, a place appears that makes us even prouder to live in this wonderful city by the sea. There was once a time when Brighton’s bid to be Kensington-on-the-coast was a pipe dream. But now with the plethora of incredible bars and restaurants that exist here, alongside the beautiful seafront architecture and cultural liveliness, we’re not only echoing that vision but also, well, we’re making it our own.
Pearly Cow is the latest space spearheading Brighton & Hove’s shiny future. It’s owned by brother trio Tristan, James and Tom Guest – who say their aim is to create “wonder-filled dining-destinations with never-tried-before dishes.” Add a touch of magic and their newly launched Brighton incarnation is a true wower.
Setting The Scene
Situated beneath its sister business the lavish No.124 hotel – Pearly Cow has already established itself as the hotspot of fancy fabulousness. At the helm of the restaurant is Brighton-born chef Andrew MacKenzie, formerly of The Salt Room and Soho House. His love of good seafood and meat is evident, and the clear concept of ‘Over Flame’ and ‘On Ice’ alongside teaser words like “freshness” and a devotion to respecting what thrives nearby – the herds, breeds, crops, and catches – sets the scene.
The Experience
When the service is spot on, you know it. Formal yet informal, friendly but professional, knowledgeable yet unpretentious. It’s all pitch perfect and very Brighton – we don’t tend to celebrate sommeliers who suggest we should know which year was good for a certain grape; we may be interested to ask, or just be guided in a manner that makes us feel good. Recommendations and imparted in-the-know tips are welcome, and the team hit just the right note. Feeling at home is a motto, with the team “dedicated to providing a memorable and relaxing experience and ensuring that every guest feels at home in Pearly Cow.” They’ve nailed it.
An Indulgent Supper
The ‘Fire’ and ‘Ice’ theme means that fresh seafood is just caught fresh, and meat is flamed with love. Summed up, the food is simply stunning. I hope we have you salivating, so let’s take a bite into the oysters… We opted for the plump Whitstable, and Jersey ones, which were recommended, served on a bed of ice atop a huge shell-shaped dish, which is a bit of objet d’art in itself. A drizzle of Merlot vinegar, shallot & lemon, and these slip down among the creamiest we’ve ever sampled. We matched this with a glass of Chapel Down fizz and, as you might imagine, heaven is a step closer.
The ‘while-you-wait’ tacos arrived at the same time, with our tastebuds correctly choosing the Salted cod & crab, preserved lemon, nori mayonnaise; and the Beef fillet tartare, Dijon mustard fillings. A couple of mouthfuls each, they’re a perfect, deliciously tasty nibble with crisp casing and generously stuffed.
45-day salt-aged 12oz Ribeye
Steak had to be one of our mains – Pearly Cow is known for its finest cuts, fired on the open flame. A 45-day salt-aged 12oz Ribeye, medium rare, served with peppercorn, chimichurri or Béarnaise sauce (we asked to try them all!), glazed onion, and herb-crusted bone marrow, proved to exceed all expectations.
The steak was perfectly fire-crisp on the outside and meltingly beautiful in, tenderised by the Ribeye-fat marbling and the skill of the chef. The sauces were better than any we’d tasted – we asked for the recipe for the peppercorn sauce, but we’re told it’s a Pearly secret – if you get wind, please write in on a postcard.
‘Surf and Turf’
The Skate, served with suckling pork belly and sprout tops, was presented beautifully, with the meaty, silky skate sliding off the bone and matched with the salty-sweet of the pork belly. This is a ‘surf and turf’ special.
And the chips! Well, Pearly Cow says ‘IYKYK’ on their website so I’m not sure if we’re allowed to divulge how they’re constructed but, trust us, the layers of potato lathered in beef fat and baked for 90 minutes is something you won’t forget in a hurry – absolutely delicious!
Of course, we haven’t mentioned the freshly baked bread, served with salted-beef-dripping butter, which we could eat every single day and never get tired. Quite how they make bread rolls taste this fluffy, packed with flavour, and so perfectly warm and comforting, we don’t know.
Raspberry Trifle with Pistachio and White Chocolate
Stuffed to the rafters, we couldn’t really squeeze in a dessert but, for the interests of this writing, we managed a Raspberry trifle with pistachio and white chocolate. Again, this isn’t the stuff of kids’ parties, but a journey through flavourful firm jelly and sumptuous chocolate with desiccated coconut also cutting through. Divine.
We’re so grateful to welcome the Pearly Cow as one of our own. As they say: It’s the feeling of finding a pearl in an oyster shell. It’s a bit of magic.
