They say great things are better done together, and Cin Cin’s Supper Club enables indulgence in the company of a knowledgeable team and fellow diners diving into the same. Cheers! I hear you cry, and the aptly named Cin Cin is there to raise your toast a little higher while imparting Italian foodie secrets and wine gems.
Welcome to Cin Cin’s monthly Supper Clubs – a celebration of ‘cucina povera’ (simple kitchen) pleasures that celebrate key, seasonal Italian ingredients. It’s a get together to enjoy life’s good bits, in a relaxed atmosphere and with an open kitchen that wafts sensory delights. And the chefs create dishes that to us mere mortals are anything but elementary.
Cucina Splendida
It’s a proper pleasure to sit stooled-on-high and watch the kitchen team conjure their creations in such a choreographed and considered way. Some of the chefs are young, and they are clearly passionate and keen to showcase their skills.
Don’t be afraid to converse, we did, but of course tried not to distract – and we learned how the On Arrival nibbles of Sicilian chickpea Panelle fritters were ‘simple to make’ (we think this is a case of ‘if you know, you know’) and paired beautifully with Cin Cin’s homemade pickles, which are made from beetroot candies, carrots, shallots or celery – what’s in season, naturally.
But they added a welcome sharp crunch to the triangles of fritters and slipped down a treat with the house special Negroni. Served on a small wooden chopping board, the sense of street food endured, but the taste edged more towards whetting one’s appetite for what’s next at the Michelin-featured Cin Cin, which scored highly in the Best Restaurants category in this year’s BRAVO Awards.
Fried dough never tasted so good
The Supper Club menu allows a choice of two dishes per Starter, Main and Dessert, so in the name of blogging, we went for the lot to feed us both with tasters of its entirety. Gnocco fritto was a starter choice, intriguing in its supposed simplicity as fried dough consisting of just water, flour and lard, which plumps up like a little pillow when heated. Served with cured ham and a garlic emulsion, it proved a moreish mouthful with each bite.
Staying with the ‘cucina povera’ concept, the other starter of beetroot and sourdough panzanella – a famously simple dish from Tuscany of leftover bread with ripe ingredients – celebrated more pickling expertise at Cin Cin, with crisp fennel and beetroot slices infused with their secret pickle recipe and laced with fresh, bitter leaves. A joy to eat and a ‘povera’ plate of food made good.
Wise-choice Italian wine
The Cin Cin team is on-hand to recommend Italian wines to pair with each course, presenting not-the-usual choices with relaxed command of the craft.
But despite the tasting session, we’re not distracted from the swirly Rotolo Verde green pasta, filled with slow cooked venison and ricotta and served on top of a rich tomato sauce, with crisp salad leaves crowning the dish.
This is indulgent food that sprinkles layers of flavour across your tastebuds – cold-warm comfort food with a mixture of textures in your mouth. We weren’t sure this could be beaten, but the queen plate of the night was the risotto of wild garlic, mushrooms and parmesan. I’ve never understood how risotto can be made this well, and with such attention to balance of flavour. The ingredients are simple, but the execution is stratospheric.
Tarts and crème fraiche
The chef seems very happy with his blowtorch ability as he charrs the top of a Torta di Riso tart, accompanied by burnt blood oranges and crème fraiche. Light, refreshing and delicious, this could also be a contender for dish of the evening, but there can only be one winner. My dinner date’s salted caramel ice cream with banana laced with Avera liqueur, and caramelised white chocolate, was a child-like treat for a very adult eater.
Cin Cin is on a mission to take you on a culinary journey through Italy, uncovering little-known dishes along the way. And we’re along for the ride. The next Cin Cin Supper Club is on 30 April, with two sittings at 18:00 and 20:30. Cheers, cheers!
