For the time being at least, The Canopy is flying just under the radar but, if you ask me (and you kinda did), it won’t be for long.
Let’s start with first appearances. Shallow, moi?
On the face of things, The Canopy is a charming neighbourhood restaurant serving an all-day brunch and some seriously good comfort food. It’s all warm neutrals, exposed brick, generous wooden tables, trailing pot plants and French ticking-clad banquettes. You get the picture. So far, so good.
But things are not quite as simple as they look.
Hidden in the kitchen is a big secret in the fabulous shape of Michael Bremner, former chef-patron of award-winning Brighton restaurant 64 Degrees. The Canopy is Michael’s new project with his lovely partner and front of house Jane. Forget new chapter, this is a whole different story…
What You’ll Love
- A relaxed Seven Dials setting that already feels like a local favourite
- Cooking from chef Michael Bremner
- Beautiful seasonal produce cooked with confidence and restraint
- A Basque-inspired pop-up menu full of bold, simple flavours
- Excellent wine and cocktails inspired by San Sebastian
A little slice of San Sebastian
A few weeks ago, cruising Instagram for food news, I came across holiday snaps of Michael and Jane enjoying a romantic mini-break in San Sebastian, the it destination for the foodie crowd. Some claim to have discovered it decades ago and ‘been to every bar 100 times’ while Michael and Jane humbly admitted this was their first trip, planned for both pleasure and inspiration. The best kind of adventure.
So when I heard they were planning a post-trip series of pop-ups, I was excited. This one was most definitely for me.
When we arrived on Saturday night, we were shown to what will now be known as ‘our usual table’ – right in the corner by the window, looking out at what must be the biggest fruiting fig tree in the city. On the stereo, chilled jazz-house chosen by excellent bartender Luke (we asked and it’s berlioz – check it out). We couldn’t have been happier.
Finger on the button and shaker at the ready
We started with our choice of aperitif. I opted for a Hugo Spritz. A refreshing mix of St-Germain (elderflower liqueur), prosecco, soda and mint, it’s lower in alcohol and lighter than its sticky cousin Aperol, and I (and The Guardian) have it pegged as the summer sip of 2026.
My husband recently discovered the joys of a good and ‘fricy’ margarita and he went there happily. This one had great balance and a seriously intentional chilli-salt rim. I know because I tried it – twice.
We ordered snacks ‘from the bar’ – plates of pimientos de padrón and jamón with fresh, lightly toasted bread and oil – getting things started as we mean to go on. The peppers were blistered to perfection, juicy, expertly salted and hot. I actually love the roulette aspect of this green treat but swerved a super-hot one this time. The jamón was sliced almost impossibly thin and layered so attractively it almost seemed a shame to dig in…
From the kitchen
Jane suggested we order five small plates from the menu but we couldn’t decide, so we went for six. And I’m not going to lie, even that was a real struggle. There really wasn’t one thing on the menu that I didn’t want to taste.
First up, morcilla. If you haven’t tried morcilla, it’s somewhere between black pudding and haggis, and this version was extra. Just go for it, you won’t be disappointed.
Next came lobster croquetas served with aioli. Perfectly crisp on the outside with generous, indulgent insides and small pieces of fresh lobster which were allowed to shine.
Jane encouraged us to try a plate of rich mixed mushrooms. Large slices of cep / porcini and oyster mushrooms were cooked to preserve their bite and topped in Basque style with a raw yolk which you break over the dish yourself. So luxe.
A salad of salted ripe tomatoes brought something fresh to the palate and a taste of summer to come.
The dishes I can’t stop thinking about
An absolute highlight was the grilled baby gem. This had just the right amount of caramelised outer leaves and soft centre and came crumbed and served with barely blanched new season peas straight from the pod. An unbelievably savoury smoked oil lifted the dish from great to memorable.
I’m not a big carnivore but the beef cheek braised in red wine, which was the richest, most meltingly delicious piece of meat I can remember eating. Ever. My mouth is still watering as I write. I would urge you to go just for this, but order everything else on the menu as well.
I can only imagine I’d have been just as enthusiastic about the other ‘big main’ – a ‘pil pil’ monkfish served with white beans. If you go, do let me know what you think.
Alongside, we each drank a glass of dangerously drinkable Txakoli, Hiruzta – a local Basque white wine with a gentle sparkle and notes of orchard fruit and fresh grapefruit. My friend Tom told me San Sebastian is all about white wine and now I know he’s right.
A beautiful Basque ending
For dessert, we ordered a slice of Basque cheesecake. It came out of the kitchen with Michael! The cheesecake, he told us, was his version of the famous San Sebastian tarta de queso from La Viña, which he and Jane had tried on their trip.
Apparently, in San Sebastian, it’s served up with little fanfare but very real craft and passion. Thick slices and big spoons of the soft centre.
While I’ve not had the pleasure of tasting the original, it seems to me that Michael’s version may well be as good as you’ll find anywhere else.
Simple, lovely, perfect.
No frills and no microgreens
Michael had lots to say about the importance of great local produce when you ‘strip back’ your menu like this. The ingredients are certainly left to shine – and why not? He’s gone out of his way to source the best: wagyu beef from Trenchmore, veg from Shrub, fresh fish from Brighton Fish Sales, and homemade ferments, all combined with seriously accomplished cooking. No frills and no microgreens.
Michael and Jane’s pop-up is a love letter to San Sebastian and a statement of intention. This is them cooking and serving food they are passionate about without compromise. And gosh, did we feel welcome.
I haven’t been to San Sebastian. It’s been pretty much top of the list for some time. But I’m nervous now, because what if I go all that way and The Canopy’s version is better than the real thing? I mean, it could be, right?
How to book
Book your table for the next San Sebastian Basque-style pop-up at The Canopy on Friday 29 and Saturday 30 May. If they do it again, we’ll be back.
