If Restaurants Brighton exists for one thing, then it’s to uncover the best eateries in the city and share the love with all of you. And that’s exactly what we can do with Embers. If you haven’t heard of it, trust us, it’s worthy of attention and taking your friends there will secure your status as the ‘you know all the best places’ one of the group.
Wood Fired Cooking and Cocktails
Embers runs with this tagline and we’re here for it. The team has somehow managed to fuse campfire fun with an intimate, informal yet high-end experience. At its core is the wood-fuelled open fire, which dominates the fully-in-view kitchen and sends bold aromas soaring. During the week, it’s small plate heaven with a perfectly curated menu ranging from jerk-fired chicken with pineapple ketchup to charred tenderstem broccoli, from smoky cauliflower with kimchi barbeque sauce to scallops with pork belly and smoked samphire. (If you’re after a post-work treat, the ‘Early Embers’ offer runs Wednesday to Friday from 5pm-6pm where two plates or two cocktails are just £14).
The cocktail team is among the best in the city and speciality creations are their forte. There’s theatre to their making and presentation, but sampling them is the standing ovation moment.
Summer Sunday roasts set for sharing
It’s summer in the city (in name if not weather) and Embers has responded by creating a lighter, more sunshine-ready Sunday roast menu with sharing platters taking centre stage. They’re quite something: atop black, earthenware plates is an epic feast that reinvents the roast.
We plumped for the Three Beast Feast where pork loin, Sussex beef rump, smoked lamb and mint sausage sit alongside roasties, cauliflower cheese purée, roasted carrots, charred broccoli, hispi cabbage and sage and onion crumb. If that’s not got your salivation tap turned on then – trust us – it should have. This isn’t your standard Sunday roast but a deep dive into those wood-fired flavours that give every element of the dish a punchy, bold flavour.
Meat!
The beef is perfectly charred on the outside and rare in the middle, sliced into delicate mouth-sized pieces that showcase why barbecuing done right is just the ticket. Homemade horseradish with a beautiful consistency smothers each slice rocketing the juicy flavours to new heights. A touch of gravy is added to the plate, but a jug of the richly flavoured stuff is served on the side to add to your liking. The pork loin is a joy of caramelised skin and perfectly cooked meat, juicy and (look away if you’re not keen on this word) moist as can be.
The lamb and mint sausage is dreamy. And – no soggy veggies here my friends – each carrot is al dente and packed with flavour; each charred broccoli is crunchy yet tender. Our favourite, however, must have been the cauliflower purée – quite how they create this is the stuff of Hogwarts. It’s smooth and creamy and moreish. I need this recipe and know-how if you’re reading, Team Embers. And the epic Yorkshires? Well, we think these beauties should be renamed ‘Brightoners’.
And there’s a baked onion option if meat isn’t your bag, served with cranberry, chestnut and sage stuffing, and a red wine jus. Co-owner Dave was previously at BRAVO Award-winning Terre à Terre so he knows how to elevate the plant-based.
Shareability
Your choices can be served on separate plates but, for us, the sharing platter concept is a wonder of campfire-like dig-in-with-friends joy. The wine list is carefully put together to complement the wood-fired delights – we enjoyed every sip of the Spanish Nekeas Tinto which brought everything together for an experience we want to repeat. This is fine Sunday roasting the Embers way. Get down and try the summer version before the autumn one lands. And then go again. We’ll see you there.
