Confession
This may shock some of you, but I reckon I’m old and ugly enough to have earned the right to tell the truth. I am not a big fan of Negronis. Cue audible intake of breath and my swift cancellation by cooler members of the local foodie establishment. I did flirt with the Sbagliato version, made famous by that rather attractive Dragons’ actor, but even that will never be top of my list. Mea culpa.
Aperitif Options
It wasn’t a big surprise that we were offered negronis made with a special Sicilian amaro as an aperitif at Il Bistro’s first regional supper‑club, given its – almost – ubiquitous appeal.
My little brother, asserting his position as the still cooler sibling, accepted the sophisticated option – drat him – while I was grateful to replace mine with a glass of prosecco. For what it’s worth – the negroni was apparently very good. Grrr.
Holiday Vibes in The Lanes
A balmy night in The Lanes, Brighton, Il Bistro’s tables, the sound of clinking glass and laughter, and the waft of something delicious cooking in the kitchen, spilled out into the street, giving immediate holiday vibes.
Half‑a‑Century of Heritage
Having been open for almost half a century, the restaurant, which specialises in authentic Italian cuisine and really good steak, is one of Brighton’s oldest establishments. Set across several historic fishermen’s cottages in the heart of The Lanes, Il Bistro is all wonky floors and welcome.
No wonder it has such a loyal, local following and won BRAVO’s Best International Cuisine 2025.
Setting the Scene
The tone is set with nice touches: our table was decorated with a large, bright lemon and a charming printed menu while Abe – patron of Il Bistro and son of the original owner – was there to welcome guests. Joining the team for an evening was a wine expert from Majestic to introduce wine pairings chosen from the terraced, volcanic vineyards on the steep slopes of Mount Etna – ancient, local grape varieties you won’t find anywhere else.
Volcanic Wines from Etna
Paul Morgan from Fourth & Church once told me that grapes grown on the scorched slopes of Etna have to work extra hard to thrive, and you can taste their effort in the quality of the wine. Every one of the wines chosen to pair with Il Bistro’s Sicilian menu was both intriguing and delightful, showcasing the maker’s passion and graft.
Antipasto: Giant Arancini
I remember the first time I went to Italy. I just couldn’t get my head round the idea that pasta was the second course of four in a typical Italian menu. Now I lean into it and eagerly await the antipasto which, in this case, was a large, rich arancino, coated with breadcrumbs and filled with ragù, buffalo mozzarella and peas. What a start! The crumb, perfectly crispy, the ragù satisfyingly savoury and the centre filled with oozy molten cheese.
Primo: Pasta alla Norma
Next up, a dish of Pasta alla Norma – a Sicilian classic named after Bellini’s famous opera. Appropriately al dente rigatoni comes sauced in sautéed aubergines, a rich tomato sauce, fresh basil and garlic, topped with ricotta salata and plenty of olive oil. These earthy, tangy flavours embody southern Italian cuisine.
Secondo: Swordfish Steak
Common in the Mediterranean but more unusual on the South Coast, the main dish is a meaty swordfish steak served on a layer of fondant potatoes and topped with olives, capers, cherry tomatoes, onion and fresh parsley. It’s well executed and tasty, and you can sense the health‑giving properties of this cuisine. Which is a good thing really, given what’s coming.
“Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.”
Immortalised in The Godfather, these traditional Sicilian fried pastries are stuffed with fresh ricotta and, in this case, dipped in chocolate and chopped pistachios. It turns out that my brother has never tried them, despite being annoyingly well‑travelled, a consummate foodie and Godfather fan. These are a great introduction; the ricotta, being not too sweet, balances perfectly with the rich chocolate and crunchy nuts adorning the pastry.
Ciao Ciao
We sit, full, happy and satisfied, reminiscing about holidays past, planning our next adventure, competing for dominance and grateful for a taste of Sicily in Brighton’s Lanes. On our way out the door, Abe stops us for a chat.
He tells us, “My father ran this place for 50 years so I’m going to do the next 50.” Sounds like a plan, Abe!
Huge thanks to Abe and the Il Bistro family for a thoroughly lovely evening.
“An offer you can’t refuse!”: 14 August
The next regional supper‑club at Il Bistro is planned for 14 August, featuring three courses inspired by the cuisine of Campania. Booking is open.
