Experiencing The Full Tasting Menu (Again!)
When I’m deciding where to eat, I’m always a little torn between the comfort of a reliable favourite and trying out somewhere new. If I’m going to be totally honest this is a tension that plays out in almost every area of my life; rest on my laurels or leap into the unknown? Well, what’s life without a little conflict…
That being said, there was no conflict (internal or external) when I was given the chance to try Dilsk’s full tasting menu for a second time. I just thanked my lucky stars and popped it in the diary.
My first visit to this fabulous restaurant, nestled under boutique hotel Drakes, was for a very special date with my man. We sat for hours, luxuriating in each other’s company, the wonderful food and a wine flight. Second time round, I was meeting my lovely Restaurants Brighton colleagues – Emma and Jude – for a long overdue catch up and to taste some of the finest cooking in the city.
The Dream Team
In case you don’t already know, Dilsk (a relative newcomer) was included in the Michelin Guide within months of opening and has been gathering momentum ever since. At the helm, you’ll find dream team chef Tom Stephens and front of house Maddy Riches. Their first solo venture, the pair have serious pedigree, having cut their teeth in some very fine establishments indeed and their dedication to the art of hospitality is clear as day.
Quintessential contemporary fine dining, Dilsk is ingredient-led, seasonal and sustainability-conscious. But fundamentally, Tom Stephen’s understands that food should be delicious first. His menus tread the delicate line between nostalgia and innovation using both classic French and modern culinary techniques to create an apparently infinite number of highly successful dishes. To top it all off, Maddy manages to create the kind of warm yet elegant environment you’ll want to come back for.
Perfection v Evolution
The Dilsk team falls hard for a few special dishes, and these then stay on the tasting menu. Like the beautiful oyster with dilsk, trout roe and radish, these dishes evolve over time, a tiny tweak here and there to keep them fresh and exciting. Impossibly moreish laminated brioche is served as its own course with a spoonable, seasonal butter. In my view, we should all pray that the Roasted Yeast, a stunning malted caramel, chocolate-covered mousse stays right where it is – forever.
On the other hand, many of the dishes are inspired by the season, the best ingredients and the whims of the super talented chef. What was a fabulously savoury plate of Iron Age Pig with artichoke, lettuce and black garlic earlier in the summer is now roast Quail with truffle Kyiv, violet artichoke, sweetcorn and girolles. The creative process does not stand still. Blink and you could miss it!
Planning My Next Visit
While the full tasting menu (with an optional / unmissable wine flight) is the ultimate treat, it pains me to admit that it might not be for every day. Luckily there’s a shorter tasting menu and a very good value set-menu for when these suit better.
My husband recently organised a dinner at Dilsk for his hard working colleagues. I tried to be magnanimous when he brought me back the menus to show me what they’d enjoyed but frankly, I was more than a little bit jealous. Now I’m plotting my next opportunity to dine at Dilsk, perhaps at Christmas, when the festive menu will be out of this world.
Could Dilsk be becoming a reliable favourite with all the thrill of the new? Now that really would be clever…
