My husband is a butcher. It should come as no surprise to learn that he’s picky about the quality of meat he eats and can be a tough customer to please in a restaurant. So who better to come with me to BRAVO award-winning Kindling – where meat is the star of the show – to sample the new Chef’s Meat Platter?
What You’ll Love
- The new Chef’s Meat Platter with fillet steak, ribeye and bone marrow
- Open-fire cooking that brings smoky depth to every bite
- A central Brighton spot with the feel of a neighbourhood restaurant
- Generous sharing plates that offer great value
- Butcher-approved steak cooked with care and confidence
That neighbourhood feel in central Brighton
Kindling Brighton is family-owned and has the vibe of a local neighbourhood restaurant, despite being in a central Brighton location. We visited early on a midweek evening and were pleased to find the place packed, with a lively, easy atmosphere.
The menu at Kindling is short and to the point, focusing on quality ingredients cooked over an open fire at the heart of the restaurant. Steaks are the main event, and you can choose from classic cuts and burgers, as well as generous sharing plates. It’s the place for serious meat lovers.
The Chef’s Meat Platter
We had our eyes, and rumbling stomachs, on the new Chef’s Meat Platter: 225g of fillet steak, 250g of ribeye steak and bone marrow, accompanied by grilled asparagus, macaroni cheese and skinny fries, plus your choice of three sauces. Definitely one to share – or to arrive very hungry for. It was extremely good value for money compared with an average steak and chips dinner, which made it even more appealing.
While we waited for our meat feast to arrive, we snacked on fresh, summery courgette and feta fritters served with a creamy, light tzatziki, and perfectly cooked brisket croquettes with a subtle jalapeño kick.
The main event
The meat platter arrived at the table to oohs and ahhs. It was beautifully presented and, for a moment, we just took it in, unsure where to start. My husband had been particularly excited to see bone marrow included on the platter – you rarely see it on a restaurant menu – and tucked straight in. Presented in a canoe-shaped bone, it was scoopable and creamy, with a subtle beefy flavour, and it got a firm thumbs up from the butcher.
The steak was sliced into bite-sized morsels, which I find far less intimidating than tackling a whole slab of beef. Both steaks were expertly cooked to our preference. The chef had obviously grilled them with care, letting the quality of the meat speak for itself. In the butcher’s words: “There’s no point using high-quality meat if you ruin it in the cooking.” You could taste the smoky, fire-cooked flavour from the charcoal grill in every bite.
Sides worth savouring
Let’s not forget the side dishes. The mac ’n’ cheese was creamy and comforting, without being overly rich or cheesy. The skinny fries were crispy and fluffy: exactly how a chip should be.
The asparagus was also perfectly cooked – al dente with a subtle smoky finish from the charcoal grill. Thick, flavoursome sauces were served on the side so you could dip in and out to suit your taste. The chimichurri deserves a special mention for being fresh and punchy.
If I had to sum it all up in one word: wow
Before we descended into a meat-induced food coma, the dessert menu appeared. Choosing wasn’t easy, so we stuck with the sharing theme and went for the dessert platter. It didn’t disappoint: tiramisu that tasted like it came straight from the kitchen of an Italian nonna, alongside a surprisingly light, gingery sticky toffee pudding and melt-in-the-mouth chocolate truffles.
Kindling ticks all the boxes
If you’re looking for quality steak in an atmospheric setting, with friendly, personal service but without the hefty price tag, Kindling ticks all the right boxes. If it’s good enough for a butcher, that says it all. In a city like Brighton, where you’re spoiled for choice, it also feels good to support an independent restaurant that’s doing things right.
