Hidden away in what feels like a VIP wine ‘cave’ behind the celebrated Cases Wine and Charcuterie on Western Road lies the pop-up BARBINO – the brainchild of Chef de Magic Jamie from Italian supremo eatery Cin Cin. The word on the street says he’s free to create dishes that pay homage to Cin Cin’s early days in their beloved Vine Street location.
And a natural pairing between Cases and Cin Cin it is proving to be, where Italian delicacies are matched perfectly with top vini Italiani.
Mystery, Romance, and Small Plates at BARBINO
This is a small plate place where everything is presented on brilliantly mismatched china, which brings a certain romanticism to the experience. The atmosphere is, well, atmospheric, and there’s a good vibe in the (shhh… secret) section on a Friday evening where the aromas of cheese and breathing wines percolate the air.
Nduja Crisps with Negronis
Crisps are a guilty pleasure for most, and the allure of homemade nduja versions with the rich house Romesco sauce was irresistible. Spicy and tomato-fruity, to taste with Negroni. Alongside, homemade soft-on-the-inside Focaccia with a crunchy exterior designed to be ripped and dipped into wild garlic butter resulted in the sounds of pleasure last heard in When Harry Met Sally.
I WANT THAT ONE
And when we dived into the cashew nut hummus with fennel and (Italian vegetable stew) Peperonata and flaked sea trout gravadlax with curried leeks, there were shrieks of “we’ll have what they’re having!” from a nearby table.
A Standout Crab Risotto
The crown in the small plate Olympics – and it was a tough call due to overwhelming deliciousness – was the crab risotto with fresh peas and preserved lemon. Chef Jamie is rightly proud of this dish – its apparent simplicity belies the real depth of flavour and careful technique.
Moving to meat, slow roast pork belly with beans, tomato and pesto showcased yet more supposed simplicity done properly – joy in every mouthful.
Wine Recommendations and Our Sweet Farewell
Washed down with wines recommended by the sommeliers and a dessert of New York style vanilla cheesecake (which momentarily diverted us from Italy, until recollection that the city boasts more than three million people of Italian descent) supplied baked texture offset by smooth and creamy apricot compote – a fantastic finale to an Italian adventure.
Find BARBINO every Thursday, Friday and Saturday during June and July 2025. Miss BARBINO; regret at your leisure…
