Don’t hate me.
I’m going to be honest with you. It might take a bit of effort, but I’ll try not to be too smug if you promise to self-regulate. Deal?
I’d been longing to visit The Salt Room since it reopened after a full redesign about a month ago. I’d had the chance to look around before launch, so I’d already seen the gorgeous interiors, hand-painted tiles, fabulous open kitchen and stunning weather-glazed terrace. But what I’d really been looking forward to was trying the new menu – still centred around fresh fish and seafood cooked over fire, but now leaning towards Riviera-style dining.
Despite this, when the time came and going there meant leaving home to head back out into the hottest day of the year, there was a part of me that thought… heatwave…raincheck? Then I remembered the terrible problems my hospitality friends have been having with last-minute cancellations and, worse still, no-shows. So I pulled myself together and set off.
Good news. I had nothing to worry about.
What You’ll Love
- A beautifully redesigned restaurant and weather-glazed seafront terrace
- Fire-cooked seafood with a fresh Riviera influence
- Outstanding service from one of Brighton’s best hospitality teams
- Thoughtful wine pairings from an expert
- One of the city’s most impressive seaside dining destinations
The Transformation
Stepping through the familiar doors on Brighton’s famous seafront was utterly transformative. The redesigned interiors were alive with happy diners, while the kitchen and bar were operating at full tilt.
We were welcomed by charming manager Will, who ushered us to one of the best tables in the house: out on the terrace overlooking the seafront action and the crumbling beauty of the West Pier.
The terrace is fully weather-glazed, meaning that in winter you still feel connected to the outside while remaining warm and protected from the elements. During milder weather, the upper sections of the Crittall windows slide down to let the sea air drift through. And during a heatwave? It’s insulated, air-conditioned and absolutely perfect.
Another thing The Salt Room is known for is the quality of its team. They’ve won the BRAVOS Best Team award several times, and it’s easy to see why. Everyone is consummately professional but full of personality too, making you feel more friend than customer.
We were immediately presented with ice-cold water and a glass of fizz. After rehydrating and the satisfying clink of a flute, we were revived and ready for what looked set to be a proper treat.
Trust the Team
We asked our server, Ben, for recommendations, explaining that we were leaning towards the ‘raw and cured’ section of the menu. Without hesitation, he suggested the Surf & Turf – a generous quenelle of beef and tuna tartare brought together with a classic tonnato sauce. It was a feat of careful preparation and precise seasoning, served alongside impossibly thin focaccia crisps.
Alongside that, we chose the seabass ceviche, prettily dotted with slivers of seabass, yuzu vinaigrette, new-season strawberries and macadamia nuts.
Feeling lazy from the heat, we asked Ben to choose the wines too.
He leaned towards Spain, selecting a Palomino and a rare Spanish Gewürztraminer to accompany the starters. I’m a fan of wine rather than an expert, but from the first sip I knew Ben had hidden depths. It turns out those depths include the notoriously challenging WSET Level 3 qualification. No flies on this guy.
Fire-Cooked Feasting
The menu feels written by people who genuinely love food. The Salt Room’s signature fire-cooked dishes remain, now joined by lighter Riviera influences and some exceptional prime cuts.
After briefly considering the catch of the day, we settled on The Salt Room Surf Board.
We always share our food. It suits us as a couple – balancing both appetite and curiosity – but this sharing platter took things to another level. Mussels, cuttlefish, langoustines, scallops and juicy Argentinian prawns were all cooked over fire and served with homemade mayonnaise and scorchingly hot, perfectly salted fries. Every piece of seafood was plump, tender and touched by smoke.
I wandered over to the open kitchen for a while, watching the chefs at work and enjoying the theatre of it all.
More lovely wines followed: an Albariño and a Xinomavro rosé from Greece. Completely different, equally perfect. That’s the sommelier’s art.
One Last Treat
Despite the spectacular desserts, our appetites had been thoroughly diminished, so pudding was off the cards this time. Though we couldn’t say no to a Spicy Margarita ice lolly on our way out. Listen up – this one’s punchy, but don’t let that put you off. This is where fun meets food!
The Verdict
All in all, I can’t think of a nicer place to while away a few hours of a heatwave. But honestly? This is a gorgeous place to be whatever the weather.
Everything that was great about The Salt Room is still here. It just got even better.
